The Covered Bowl Tea (Gaiwancha) in China

The Covered Bowl Tea (Gaiwancha) in China

Gaiwancha (盖碗茶) is a traditional tea-drinking practice common in regions such as Sichuan Province (四川省) and Gansu Province (甘肃省) in China. It is characterized by a tea set with a cover on top, a bowl in the middle, and a tray at the bottom. Often referred to as the “Three Talents Bowl,” the lid represents heaven, the tray represents earth, and the bowl represents humanity. Drinking Gaiwancha offers a unique and enjoyable experience that brings both warmth and flavor.

Cultural Tradition of Gaiwancha

The tradition of drinking Gaiwancha dates back to the Tang Dynasty (唐朝) (780-783), and it became especially popular during the Qing Dynasty (清朝). It is widely practiced in southwestern cities of China, with Chengdu (成都) in Sichuan Province being the most renowned. Gaiwancha has evolved into a traditional method of tea drinking in tea houses, tea rooms, and even in homes, particularly when receiving guests.

The Gaiwancha tea set includes three main components: the tea lid, the tea bowl, and the tea tray. The tray, also known as the tea boat (茶船子), holds the tea bowl and prevents spills. It is said that the first Gaiwancha was invented in Chengdu (成都) by the daughter of Cui Ning (崔宁), the governor of Xichuan (西川), during the Tang Dynasty (唐德宗建中年间). She invented the tea boat after noticing that the original tea cups lacked a base and were often too hot to hold. She then created a wooden tray to hold the cups, ensuring stability and comfort. Over time, the wooden tray was replaced by lacquered rings and evolved into various shapes and designs, creating the unique Gaiwancha tea culture in Chengdu (成都). This tea culture spread across southern China, enriching the tea drinking practices in surrounding regions.

Tea Drinking Ritual

When preparing Gaiwancha, there are specific rituals involved, adding to the charm of the experience:

Cleaning the Utensils: The tea bowl, lid, and tray are washed with warm water to ensure cleanliness.
Placing the Tea: Gaiwancha uses high-quality tea leaves, such as flower tea, tea cakes, or premium red and green teas. The typical amount used is between 3 to 5 grams of tea leaves.
Brewing the Tea: Hot water, just off the boil, is poured into the tea bowl, filling it to the edge. The lid is placed on top to steep the tea.
Smelling the Aroma: After around 5 minutes, the tea is ready. The tea tray is lifted, the lid is removed, and the fragrance of the tea is inhaled, providing a soothing experience.
Tasting the Tea: The tea drinker holds the tea tray, tilts the bowl, and slowly sips the tea, enjoying its smoothness, refreshing quality, and the calming effect it provides.

Unique Techniques of Tea Pouring in Chengdu

One of the most distinct features of Gaiwancha is the skillful pouring technique of the tea master. In Chengdu (成都), the tea master pours the tea with such precision that the water falls in a single column into the tea bowl, creating a pleasing sound as the tea swirls. Within moments, the tea is perfectly brewed, and not a single drop is spilled. This pouring technique is not only a skill but also an art form, admired by both locals and visitors alike.

Regional Variations of Gaiwancha

Chengdu Gaiwancha (成都盖碗茶): Known for its simplicity and elegance, Chengdu (成都) has refined Gaiwancha to an art, with the unique technique of pouring water from a copper teapot into a porcelain bowl.
Ningxia Eight Treasure Gaiwancha (宁夏八宝盖碗茶): In Ningxia (宁夏), a variation of Gaiwancha is served with eight different ingredients in the tea, creating a richer, more flavorful tea-drinking experience.

Historical Origins

The tea tray (茶托), also known as the tea boat (茶船), is said to have been invented by the daughter of Cui Ning (崔宁), the military governor of Sichuan (四川), during the Tang Dynasty (唐朝). Initially made of wood, the tray was later crafted from lacquer. The tea sets often feature famous artwork depicting landscapes, flowers, and birds, with the inside of the bowl sometimes decorated with patterns to protect it from heat. Some sets include twelve bowls and twelve trays, making up a set of twenty-four pieces used in formal tea ceremonies. During the Qing Dynasty (清朝), there were many different designs of tea trays, including round, lotus leaf-shaped, and ingot-shaped versions.

Drinking Method

Ingredients:

Tea leaves
Goji berries (枸杞)
Red dates (红枣)
Longan (桂圆)
Rock sugar (冰糖)
Fat sea (胖大海)
Dried apricots (杏干)
Chrysanthemum (菊花)
Raisins (葡萄干)
Hawthorn (山楂)
Evening primrose flowers (月见草花)

These ingredients are arranged according to the season.

The tea ingredients are placed into the bowl, and boiling water is poured over them. The first infusion is strained through the tea lid, known as “flow tea” (流茶), while the second infusion is ready for drinking. This method is quick and convenient, with ceramic tea sets being the preferred choice. The Eight-Treasure Tea (八宝茶) is a traditional drink from Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region (宁夏回族自治区), made entirely from natural ingredients and packed with nutrients, free from any artificial additives or preservatives. It has a pure, sweet flavor and is a fragrant and rich beverage, ideal for all seasons.

The Philosophy of Tea Utensils

In the art of tea drinking, the choice of tea utensils is as important as the tea itself. The utensils must match the purpose of the tea, and only when this balance is achieved can the full potential of the tea be realized. Tea lovers not only enjoy the taste of good tea but also appreciate the ritual and the tea utensils used to brew and drink the tea.

In Lu Xun’s (鲁迅) essay “Drinking Tea,” he famously wrote: “To drink good tea, one must use a covered bowl. And indeed, when brewed, the tea is clear in color, sweet in taste, slightly fragrant yet mildly bitter—truly good tea.” Why did Lu Xun praise the Gaiwancha? Among the various teacups, bowls, teapots, and cups, there must be a reason behind his preference.

Tea Utensils in China

According to the Classic of Tea (茶经), there are 25 types of tea utensils in China, generally divided into categories such as bowls, cups, teapots, and others. The choice of tea utensil depends on personal habits, lifestyle, aesthetic preferences, and the environment. For casual tea drinking, different types of tea sets may be selected based on practicality. However, for the enjoyment of fine tea and the art of tea drinking, the choice of utensil becomes more significant.

Tea cups, shaped like straight barrels, subdue the delicate tea leaves by steeping them in boiling water. The enjoyment of tea becomes less refined and more akin to “drinking like a cow.” Large teapots commonly used in the north cool the tea too quickly and cause the aroma to dissipate, resulting in a less enjoyable tea-drinking experience.

Those who truly understand tea know that the process of drinking tea emphasizes the “observation of color, smelling of aroma, tasting of flavor, and observing the form.” When tea is brewed in cups or large teapots, it does not allow for color observation or fine adjustments of tea strength. Furthermore, prolonged steeping results in a decline in quality, with color fading and the fragrance dissipating. Therefore, for both tea appreciation and health benefits, brewing tea in a covered bowl (Gaiwancha) is preferred.

The Unique Features of the Gaiwancha Tea Set

The Gaiwancha set features a bowl, a lid, and a tray, with its design being both unique and refined. The bowl has a larger opening at the top and a smaller base at the bottom. The lid fits inside the bowl, and the tray serves as a stable base. When drinking tea, the lid does not easily slip off, and the tray prevents burns from handling the hot tea. By holding the tray, the tea drinker can stabilize the bowl, and there is no need to remove the lid. It can be tilted slightly to allow the tea to flow slowly into the cup, providing a pleasant and leisurely drinking experience. This avoids the inconvenience of using a teapot or cup that requires constant removal of the lid.

To adjust the strength of the tea, the lid can be gently scraped across the surface of the water to stir the tea, making it either stronger or lighter depending on the pressure applied. This simple yet effective method allows for optimal flavor control, making the Gaiwancha a highly enjoyable and customizable tea-drinking experience.

Varieties of Covered Bowl Tea

Chengdu Covered Bowl Tea

Covered bowl tea is a signature specialty of Chengdu (成都), known for its “authentic Sichuan flavor.” In the early morning, a bowl of tea helps to clear the lungs and soothe the throat; after a meal or during leisure, it aids in digestion and refreshment; when catching up with friends or resolving disputes, it serves as a traditional ritual in Chengdu‘s urban and rural culture.

In Chengdu, the tea-making process, along with the elegant service style, is an attractive experience. The tea is brewed using a copper teapot, a tin tray, and a Jingdezhen porcelain bowl. The color, aroma, and taste of the tea are perfectly balanced. Moreover, visitors can watch the tea-making master perform a stunning tea-pouring skill. In traditional tea houses, the tea master pours the tea with a large copper teapot in one hand and the tin tray and white porcelain bowl in the other. With a flick of the wrist, the tea master gracefully pours the tea into the bowls without spilling a single drop, creating a spectacle that delights the senses.

Ningxia Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea

The Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea (八宝盖碗茶) originated during the Tang Dynasty (唐朝) and has a long history of being a favorite tea in Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region (宁夏回族自治区), where it combines the Han tea-drinking customs with those of the local Muslim (回族) population. The result is a unique tea with a strong local character.

This tea is popular among all ages in Ningxia, and the tea-making process follows the traditional method using a covered bowl, which is also known as a “three-pod platform” (三泡台). The tea bowl is large at the top and small at the bottom, with a delicate and beautiful design. In the summer, the Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea is often considered even more refreshing than watermelon, while in winter, people gather around the stove, roasting some bread or eating traditional snacks, and always “scrape” a few bowls of tea.

The tea has different names and variations depending on the ingredients used. Common ingredients include red sugar brick tea (红糖砖茶), white sugar clear tea (白糖清茶), and rock sugar wok tea (冰糖窝窝茶). Those who are unwell can choose specific blends to help with various ailments. For example, rock sugar wok tea can help clear heat, while red sugar brick tea is better for those with digestive issues. For daily wellness, Eight-Treasure Tea adds ingredients like red dates (红枣), goji berries (枸杞), walnut kernels (核桃仁), longan (桂圆), sesame seeds (芝麻), raisins (葡萄干), and fruit preserves (果脯) to the tea leaves.

The tea is brewed using boiling water, and it should be steeped for about two to three minutes before drinking. The tea master also has a unique pouring style: when serving guests, they open the lid in front of the guest, add the tea ingredients, pour in boiling water, cover the tea, and then serve the tea with both hands, showing respect.

Other Variations of Covered Bowl Tea

Three Fragrance Tea (三香茶): Tea leaves, rock sugar, and longan.
Five Fragrance Tea (五香茶): Rock sugar, tea leaves, longan, raisins, and dried apricots.
Eight-Treasure Tea (八宝茶): Red dates, goji berries, walnut kernels, longan, sesame seeds, raisins, white sugar, and tea leaves.

Different tea blends can be selected according to the season and individual health needs. For instance, in summer, jasmine tea (茉莉花茶) or green tea (绿茶) are more common, while in winter, Shanqing tea (陕青茶) is preferred. Other options include using Biluochun (碧螺春), Maofeng (毛峰), or Dragon Well tea (龙井茶).

Health Benefits of Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea

The Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea is not just a beverage but also a health elixir, rich in nutrients and beneficial properties. The tea has ingredients that support various health benefits, such as improving memory, enhancing energy, aiding digestion, and promoting overall wellness.

Sesame (芝麻): Nourishes the blood, lubricates the intestines, and enhances intelligence.
Red Dates (红枣): Rich in Vitamin C, strengthens the brain, and promotes longevity.
Longan (桂圆): Known for its nourishing properties, it helps with digestion and promotes better sleep.
Walnut Kernels (核桃仁): High in nutritional value, walnuts improve memory and maintain energy levels.
Goji Berries (枸杞): Famous for their medicinal properties, they support liver health, boost the immune system, and improve eyesight.

By incorporating these beneficial ingredients into the tea, Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea serves as both a delicious beverage and a health tonic. Regular consumption is believed to have a positive impact on the body, especially in terms of energy, digestion, and overall well-being.

Tea Rituals and Etiquette

When serving tea to guests, there are several etiquettes to follow in the Hui Muslim community. For example, it is considered respectful to offer freshly brewed tea to guests before a meal. The tea is brewed with boiling water, and the tea ingredients are carefully chosen based on the season and the guest’s health. When serving, the tea master will often open the lid of the bowl in front of the guest, place the tea ingredients inside, and pour boiling water. The tea bowl is then gently tilted so the tea flows out steadily, offering a sensory experience that is both soothing and pleasurable.

Drinking Covered Bowl Tea should be done slowly, with each sip savored. Guests should not remove the lid to blow away floating tea leaves. Instead, they should gently scrape the lid, adjusting the tea’s strength according to their preference.

In addition, the act of leaving a little tea at the bottom of the bowl indicates that you would like to have more, and this practice is a subtle way of showing politeness and respect.

Tea as a Symbol of Hospitality and Connection

Tea plays an important role in Hui Muslim (回族) culture, symbolizing hospitality and connection. When friends or relatives come to visit, Eight-Treasure Covered Bowl Tea is often served as a gesture of warmth and respect. During festivals such as Eid al-Fitr (开斋节) or Eid al-Adha (古尔邦节), or during weddings, it is common for hosts to offer tea to their guests along with traditional snacks like fried dough (馓子) and sweets (花花).

Tea also serves as a vital part of the community’s social life. The act of preparing and sharing tea is not just a ritual but also an expression of respect and care, further cementing relationships and fostering a sense of community.

In conclusion, Covered Bowl Tea is much more than a drink; it is a reflection of China’s tea culture (中国茶文化), and the Hui Muslim community’s traditions. It continues to play a significant role in social gatherings, enhancing both the physical and cultural well-being of those who partake in it.