The Congou (GongFu Tea) in China

GongFu Tea (工夫茶), or Kungfu Tea, is a traditional tea-drinking method popular in the Chaozhou (潮州) and Chaoshan (潮汕) regions of Guangdong (广东). The name “GongFu” refers to the “skill” or “effort” involved in both brewing and drinking the tea. It is typically enjoyed by three people, and the tea is made using small teapots and porcelain cups, which have a unique design resembling small wine glasses. The tea is brewed with oolong tea (乌龙茶) and water, and served from a small teapot over a small charcoal or alcohol burner. The tea is poured in a circular motion over three cups, a technique locally known as “Guang Gong Xun Cheng” (关公巡城), meaning “like the General Guan going around the city.” The tea is then served in small cups that are full of aroma and flavor, offering a rich and enjoyable experience.

Unlike ordinary tea, GongFu Tea is about more than just brewing; it involves a specific ritual of repeatedly filling the cups in a specific order and making sure each cup is served one after another. Therefore, the entire process of preparing and drinking GongFu Tea requires skill, patience, and effort.

Origin and Cultural Significance

GongFu Tea originated during the Song Dynasty (宋代) and became most popular in the Chaozhou (潮州) and Chaoshan (潮汕) areas of Guangdong (广东). It is a continuation and further development of tea culture that began in the Tang Dynasty (唐朝). The practice has now become one of the quintessential representations of Chinese tea culture. The famous poet Su Zhe (苏辙) once wrote: “Tea from Fujian is the best in the world, dedicating oneself to tea is never tiring.”

The preparation of GongFu Tea requires precision, particularly when it comes to managing the water temperature, fire, and tea steeping process. The Tea Classic (《茶经》) mentions that “mountain spring water is the best, river water is good, and well water is lower quality,” as there were no modern water supply systems at the time. It emphasizes that water used for brewing tea must be fresh and clean. This reflects the meticulous care that is essential in making GongFu Tea.

The preparation process involves “living water” and “living fire”—which refers to the need for dynamic, fresh water and fire to properly brew the tea. For instance, Chaozhou tea makers use a special type of charcoal called “Jiao Ji Charcoal” (绞积炭), derived from a very hard tree, known for its clean, smokeless burning properties, perfect for tea brewing.

Essential Teaware and Brewing Techniques

Teaware for GongFu Tea

In Chaozhou (潮州), GongFu Tea is typically brewed using a small Yixing teapot (宜兴紫砂壶) and white porcelain cups that are as small as the size of a coin, which resemble small wine glasses. The teapots and cups are chosen carefully to enhance the tea’s aroma and taste. The tea is brewed using oolong tea leaves such as Lingtou Dancong (岭头单丛), Baiye Dancong (白叶单丛), and Phoenix Dancong (凤凰单丛), which are renowned for their complex flavors and fragrance.

The Brewing Process

1. Water: The water used for GongFu Tea must be fresh and preferably boiled using a lively fire. The tea is usually brewed with water from mountain springs or high-quality well water.

2. Fire: The fire used to brew the tea should be strong and consistent. In Chaozhou, this is often achieved by using Jiao Ji Charcoal (绞积炭) or olive stone charcoal (乌榄核), which produces a clean and steady heat.

3. Steeping: The tea is brewed using a technique that involves placing the teapot on a small burner, heating the water and infusing the tea leaves. The tea is then poured in a circular motion over the tea cups, ensuring each cup is filled in a precise order.

The GongFu Tea Ritual

The GongFu Tea ritual itself is just as important as the brewing process. During tea drinking, the tea master uses a delicate technique to pour tea into three small cups arranged in a character ‘品’ (pin) formation, resembling the Chinese character for “taste.” The ritual, known as “Guang Gong Xun Cheng” (关公巡城), requires the tea master to pour the tea in a circular motion over each cup, ensuring that the cups are filled in sequence. This method allows for an even distribution of the tea’s aroma and taste, providing a harmonious experience for the drinker.

Types of Tea Used in GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea is particularly known for its strong, concentrated flavor. At first, the tea may seem a bit bitter, but once accustomed to it, drinkers find that other teas lack its rich, intense flavor. The most commonly used tea for GongFu Tea is oolong tea (乌龙茶), a partially fermented tea that sits between black tea and green tea. This type of tea is essential for producing the distinctive color, aroma, and taste required by the GongFu Tea method.

• Lingtou Dancong (岭头单丛): Grown in Raoping County (饶平县), Chaozhou (潮州), this tea is characterized by a bright golden color and a honey-like fragrance. It is highly prized for its sweet, smooth taste and long-lasting aftertaste.

• Baiye Dancong (白叶单丛): Another specialty of Raoping (饶平), this tea is known for its light, sweet taste and is often referred to as “White Leaf Fairy” (白叶仙子).

• Phoenix Dancong (凤凰单丛): Produced in the Phoenix Mountains (凤凰山) of Chaozhou, this tea has a unique light-brown color and a strong, floral fragrance. It can withstand multiple infusions and is available in various flavors, including osmanthus, jasmine, and honey.

Health Benefits of GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea, in addition to its rich flavor, is also known for its health benefits. The tea is often associated with improving digestion, boosting energy, and providing a sense of relaxation. Oolong tea, used in GongFu Tea, is particularly beneficial for:

• Boosting metabolism and aiding in weight loss.

• Improving mental clarity and focus.

• Reducing stress and promoting relaxation.

GongFu Tea as a Social Ritual

In the Chaozhou (潮州) region, GongFu Tea is not just a tea-drinking experience, but a social ritual. It is a way to connect with family, friends, and guests. Many families in Chaozhou have GongFu tea sets, and it is a common practice to brew and serve tea daily, creating opportunities for socializing and relaxation.

Even those who have moved away from Chaozhou (潮州) or Chaoshan (潮汕) still carry on this tradition, often preserving the practice of GongFu Tea as part of their cultural heritage. Wherever Chaozhou people live, GongFu Tea can be found, symbolizing a deep connection to their roots and to the people they share it with.

Brewing Tips for GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea is divided into three main styles: Fujian, Chaozhou, and Taiwan. Fujian typically drinks Tie Guan Yin (Iron Goddess of Mercy), Chaozhou favors green tea, Chaozhou fried tea, and Dancong tea, while Taiwan is known for its Dongding Oolong. Despite the different preferences, the brewing methods of all three styles are common and interconnected.

Types of Water for Brewing

In the art of GongFu tea, water is considered essential for making the perfect tea. As Lu Yu mentioned in The Classic of Tea, “Water from the mountains is the best, river water is medium, and well water is the worst.”

• Heavenly Water (天水): This refers to the highest-quality water, such as snow water or dew. In Dream of the Red Chamber, Cao Xueqin writes about using snow water collected from plum blossoms five years ago to brew tea, which highlights the luxurious nature of tea-drinking. Wealthy families used to collect water just before sunrise using bamboo tubes, as water collected during this time was believed to have better taste and fragrance.

• Earth Water (地水): Refers to mountain spring water, which can vary in quality depending on the soil type. Among these, sand-based water is considered the best because it naturally filters out impurities. In tea houses and hotels, clear water with a sweet taste is generally considered sufficient.

High Pour, Low Pour Method

The terms “high pour” and “low pour” refer to the techniques of brewing and serving tea.

• High Pour: When brewing, water should be poured along the inside rim of the teapot, rather than directly into the center. This method prevents “breaking the tea heart,” which can ruin the flavor. The water should be poured from a height, allowing the heat to penetrate the teapot’s bottom and raise the tea foam, making the tea more fragrant and visually pleasing.

• Low Pour: When serving, the teapot should be as close to the teacup as possible to prevent the heat from dissipating, ensuring that the tea stays hot and the aroma doesn’t evaporate prematurely. A low pour also prevents splashing and keeps the tea in its best state.

To serve, the tea should be poured into each cup in a rotating pattern, filling them gradually, which is referred to as “Guang Gong Circulating the City” (关公巡城). This ensures the tea is evenly distributed across all cups.

Tea Etiquette

In traditional Chaozhou GongFu tea, there are usually three cups used regardless of the number of guests. The cups are arranged in a “品” shape (meaning “taste”), and the first cup is always served to the guest of honor, regardless of their rank, age, or gender. After each cup, the cups are rinsed with boiling tea to maintain warmth before serving the next guest. This custom reflects a sense of unity, friendliness, and mutual respect.

The tea is tasted in three stages: first, the aroma is inhaled; next, the color of the tea is observed; and lastly, the taste is savored. A single cup of tea should be tasted in three sips: the first sip should spread the aroma to the palate, the second should smoothen the taste down the throat, and the final sip should bring a refreshing sensation, completing the experience of GongFu tea.

This is the essence of GongFu tea:

1. “Fragrance filling the mouth,”

2. “Sweetness moistening the throat,”

3. “Refreshing the spirit beyond the clouds.”

The Importance of Brewing GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea is an art form in itself. Without skillful brewing, it cannot be called GongFu Tea. Therefore, the essence of GongFu Tea lies in the brewing process and the proper methods involved in preparing it.

Tea Brewing Process

Step 1: Preparing the Utensils

The first step in brewing GongFu Tea is preparing the tea utensils. The teapot, known as “Chong Guan” in Chaozhou (潮州), is usually made from clay, with purple clay (Zisha) being the most highly valued. The teapot has a flat, round, and drum-like shape with a long spout and handle. A well-made teapot, when placed upside down, should have the spout, mouth, and handle evenly touching the surface, with the center aligned. The teapot should be steady in water, neither sinking nor tipping over.

The teacups used in GongFu Tea are delicate and elegant, with a diameter of around 5 cm and a height of 2 cm. They are divided into two types: one for cold weather, with a slightly narrowed rim to retain heat, and one for hot weather, with a slightly flared rim for better heat dissipation.

The tea tray, or “Tea Ship” (茶船), has a concave lid with drainage holes that can hold about half a liter of spent tea water. The entire set of tea utensils is considered a work of art, often decorated with either underglaze or overglaze colors.

Step 2: Adding the Tea Leaves

When adding tea leaves to the teapot, they should be spread on a clean white paper to sort by size. The coarser leaves go at the bottom of the pot near the spout, with finer leaves placed in the middle, and the coarse leaves on top. This ensures that the tea is evenly brewed, allowing the flavors to unfold gradually. A teapot should be filled about 70% full with tea leaves. Too much tea makes the brew too bitter, while too little results in a weak flavor.

Step 3: Waiting for the Water to Reach the Right Temperature

The water temperature is crucial to brewing good tea. As the poet Su Dongpo wrote, “When the crab eyes pass and the fish eyes form,” referring to the ideal boiling temperature for tea brewing. According to the Tea Sutra, water that reaches a slight boil, with a faint sound like “fish eyes,” is the perfect temperature to brew GongFu Tea.

Step 4: Brewing the Tea

Once the water reaches the second boil, the teapot is ready for brewing. The teapot should be positioned a short distance from the kettle, about seven steps. After lifting the kettle, pour the hot water in a circular motion along the rim of the teapot, avoiding pouring directly into the center. The term “high pour, low pour” refers to this method, where the water should be poured from a height to allow it to impact the tea leaves, helping to release their fragrance while preventing the tannins from dissolving and causing bitterness.

Step 5: Skimming the Foam

After the tea has been poured, it is essential to skim off the tea foam. Once the teapot is filled, the foam will rise. Using the teapot lid, gently remove the foam from the surface of the tea. This ensures that the tea remains clear and clean, without any bitterness.

Step 6: Rinsing the Teapot

Once the foam is removed, the next step is to rinse the teapot. Pour boiling water over the teapot, helping to release the tea’s fragrance and ensure the teapot stays hot. This step is crucial for keeping the tea at the right temperature and enhancing its aroma.

Step 7: Warming the Cups

Warming the cups is an essential part of the GongFu Tea ceremony. After rinsing the teapot, pour hot water into the cups to warm them. It is important to pour the water directly into the center of the cups to ensure they are properly heated. This ritual of warming cups, or “Burning the Cups” (烧盅热罐), enhances the flavor and temperature of the tea, ensuring the best drinking experience.

Step 8: Pouring the Tea

The final step is pouring the tea into the cups. The pouring method is crucial, and there are four key points: low, fast, even, and complete. The pouring should be low to prevent the fragrance from dissipating. It should be fast to maintain the tea’s temperature and prevent the aroma from escaping. The pouring should be even, ensuring each cup gets the same amount of tea. The tea should be poured completely, leaving no water in the teapot after serving the cups. After pouring, the teapot should be turned upside down on a mat to allow any remaining water to drip out. This is vital, as any remaining water could cause the tea to become bitter due to the release of tannins.

These eight steps, when followed correctly, result in the perfect cup of GongFu Tea, with a smooth, aromatic flavor that is both refreshing and invigorating.

Tea Etiquette

GongFu Tea (工夫茶) is more than just a tea brewing method; it carries significant cultural meanings, especially within the Chaozhou (潮州) region. The tea-drinking customs in Chaozhou and surrounding areas are unique, with traditions that have been passed down for generations. When serving tea to guests, the host is expected to personally brew the tea, and the tea must be strong, almost like soy sauce, as a sign of respect to the guests. If a distinguished guest arrives, the tea leaves must be replaced to demonstrate a warm welcome. Failing to do so is considered a sign of disrespect, as it is seen as “slow service” or “dishonoring the guest.”

The first cup of tea served should be given to the elder or the guest of highest status, following the principle of “respect the elder first, then the younger.” Other customs include serving guests first and then the host, with the person who brews the tea (the “teapot master” or “柜长”) drinking last. If there are many guests, individuals should only take the cup in front of them, with the last person allowed to drink from the middle cup. Taking the middle cup first is a breach of etiquette, as it is viewed as disrespectful to both the host and fellow guests.

Tea and Life

In Chaozhou, GongFu Tea is deeply embedded in everyday life, and many people start their day by brewing a pot of tea. It provides an instant feeling of refreshment, sweeping away any tiredness. Tea is often shared among friends in a relaxed, social environment where people exchange ideas and strengthen bonds. The act of drinking tea transcends simple thirst-quenching and becomes an essential part of the culture.

Tea is so integral to life in Chaozhou that it is referred to as “tea rice” (茶米), showing how cherished it is, almost like a staple food such as rice. In high-end Chaozhou restaurants, GongFu Tea is often served alongside meals, such as after eating seafood or rich dishes, to cleanse the palate, refresh the senses, or aid digestion. GongFu Tea and Chaozhou cuisine complement each other like two sides of the same coin, contributing to the profound and extensive food culture of the region. Some say that a meal in Chaozhou would feel incomplete without GongFu Tea.

Types of GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea is categorized into three major styles: the Fujian (福建) style, Chaozhou (潮州) style, and Taiwanese style. In Fujian, people prefer tea like Tie Guan Yin (铁观音), while in Chaozhou, Da Hong Pao (大红袍) and Dan Cong Tea (单枞茶) are more popular. In Taiwan, Dong Ding Oolong (冻顶乌龙) is commonly consumed. Despite their differences, the brewing methods for all three styles are largely compatible.

The Philosophy Behind GongFu Tea

GongFu Tea is not just a beverage but an art form that embodies profound cultural concepts. Its elegance lies in the way it transforms an ordinary daily activity into an artful practice. The philosophy of GongFu Tea reflects the Chinese concept of “Tian Ren He Yi” (天人合一), which means the unity of heaven and man. The act of brewing and drinking tea goes beyond satisfying basic needs, offering a higher spiritual pursuit. It embodies a deeper connection with nature, personal cultivation, and the pursuit of inner harmony.

Drinking tea is often seen as a meditative practice, requiring knowledge, experience, and an appreciation for subtle flavors. When tea-drinking becomes an art, a fashion, or even a philosophy, it elevates the experience to a cultural ritual. GongFu Tea, as an advanced form of tea brewing, becomes a reflection of national ethics, values, and spiritual aspirations.

Clarifying the Terminology

The Difference Between “GongFu” and “KungFu”

A common misconception is the interchangeable use of “GongFu Tea” (工夫茶) and “KungFu Tea” (功夫茶). However, the two terms are distinct and should not be used interchangeably.

• Gong vs Kung: The characters “工” (Gong) and “功” (Kung) have different meanings. “工” refers to craftsmanship, skill, and art, while “功” refers to achievements or accomplishments. The character “工” implies mastery through diligent effort, as described in the Shuo Wen Jie Zi (说文解字), which states that “工” refers to skillful work, achieved by adhering to rules and principles.

• GongFu vs KungFu: The distinction between “工夫” (GongFu) and “功夫” (KungFu) is also important. “GongFu” refers to philosophical cultivation or the practice of improving oneself, whereas “KungFu” typically refers to martial arts or physical prowess. The term “KungFu” is often used in movies to describe martial arts films, whereas “GongFu” is used to refer to the tea-drinking culture.

• GongFu Tea vs KungFu Tea: The earliest mention of “GongFu Tea” appears in Qing Dynasty writings, such as Mengchang Zazu (梦厂杂著) by Yu Jiao. In the Chaozhou region, this tea style has been known as “GongFu Tea” for centuries. The traditional pronunciation of “工” and “功” in Chaozhou dialect makes it clear that they are different words, and this distinction should be respected when referring to the tea.

In conclusion, “GongFu Tea” (工夫茶) refers specifically to the traditional tea brewing and drinking culture that embodies craftsmanship and refinement, while “KungFu Tea” (功夫茶) is a misnomer that mistakenly associates tea with martial arts.

Local Standards

The Chaozhou GongFu Tea (潮汕工夫茶) standard, officially released by the Guangdong Provincial Bureau of Quality and Technical Supervision, marks the first GongFu Tea standard in mainland China.

“People in Chaozhou (潮州) all drink GongFu Tea, but not everyone understands it,” said Zheng Wenkeng (郑文铿), the principal drafter of the standard and honorary president of the Shantou (汕头) Tea Culture Association. Although GongFu Tea has become widespread and transcended Chaozhou, the culture surrounding it still lacks sufficient popularization.

Incorporating traditional terms like “Guan Gong Xun Cheng” (关公巡城) and “Han Xin Dian Bing” (韩信点兵), this standard sets down folk conventions for brewing GongFu Tea, including a set of four essential tea utensils and ten brewing steps. The standard also clarifies that the use of a “Gong Dao Bei” (公道杯) — a fairness cup, often used to evenly distribute tea — is not necessary for authentic Chaozhou GongFu Tea brewing.

The Standards: Tea Utensils Only Include the “Four Treasures”

In June 2009, the Guangdong Provincial Government held a conference in Shantou. Afterward, the provincial quality control agency proposed the creation of a local standard for Chaozhou GongFu Tea, aiming to use GongFu Tea to boost local branding and drive economic development. This led to the establishment of the “Chaozhou GongFu Tea” standard.

Shantou’s Tea Culture Association took the lead in drafting the standard, with Zheng Wenkeng serving as the chief drafter. “He (Zheng Wenkeng) is the most suitable person for this task. We all call him the ‘Tea Saint,'” said Zheng Chuhui (郑楚辉), vice president of the Shantou Tea Culture Association.

Although GongFu Tea has been a daily ritual in Chaozhou households for over 200 years, Zheng Wenkeng believes that its true cultural depth has not been fully realized. “Most people drink GongFu Tea simply to quench their thirst or socialize. The deeper understanding of tea culture is still lacking,” said Zheng Wenkeng.

The Standardization of Brewing GongFu Tea

Chaozhou GongFu Tea brewing includes several intricate steps, from the placement of utensils to the water temperature and the precision of each pour. The standard clarifies that the practice should follow traditional techniques, emphasizing the exclusion of the Gong Dao Bei, which is commonly used in Taiwanese tea ceremonies but does not belong to authentic Chaozhou GongFu Tea practices.

Zheng Wenkeng, in his drafting, referenced historical documents, folk practices, and national training materials for tea masters. The standard provides a clear, unified brewing method, encompassing ten steps — from the placement of the tea utensils, tea leaves, boiling water, pouring, to the “Guan Gong Xun Cheng” and “Han Xin Dian Bing” techniques.

The Ten Brewing Steps

The brewing procedure consists of detailed steps, including the following:

• Tea Preparation: Begin with placing the tea utensils and tea leaves correctly.

• Water Boiling: Boil water to the correct temperature.

• Pouring the Water: The water should be poured gently into the tea pot or teapot, avoiding direct contact with the center to prevent bitterness.

• Scraping the Foam: After the water is poured, any foam that forms on the surface of the tea should be scraped off carefully.

• Warming the Cup: Heat the tea cups to ensure the tea’s warmth.

• Serving the Tea: Pour the tea into cups in a controlled manner, following the steps outlined in the standard.

Every stage in the brewing process has detailed guidelines to ensure the tea’s flavor and aroma are properly balanced.

Debate: Does the Standard Still Preserve the “GongFu” Element?

Although the standard has been officially adopted, some people argue that GongFu Tea, particularly the brewing process, relies on personal intuition and craftsmanship, and that formalizing it into a standard might undermine its essence. “If there’s already a standard for GongFu Tea, what remains of the ‘GongFu’?” questioned Zheng Wenkeng.

He explained that just as tea leaf production processes have standards, the brewing process can also vary depending on the individual. The same tea brewed by different people can yield vastly different results, which showcases the depth of GongFu Tea.

In the Chaozhou dialect, the word “Gong” (工) encompasses concepts like “attention to detail, meticulousness, and skill.” Zheng Wenkeng emphasizes that the true essence of Chaozhou GongFu Tea lies in these subtleties and personal techniques, which cannot be fully encapsulated by a standard.

Animation Movie: GongFu Tea as a Cultural Icon

A unique blend of traditional elements like GongFu Tea, Puning dried tofu (普宁豆干), beef meatballs (牛肉丸), and other symbols of Chaozhou culture have been brought to life as animated characters and scenes in the first local 3D animated film titled “GongFu Tea Hero” (功夫茶侠). The film is a creation by veteran animation planner Zhuang Weibin (庄伟斌) from Puning (普宁), Guangdong.

This innovative approach aims to introduce Chaozhou’s tea culture to a broader audience, including international viewers, and contribute to the cultural exchange of the region.