
Nuohei Stony Village in Shilin County, Kunming
Nuohei Stony Village (糯黑村) is located in Guishan Town (圭山镇), Shilin Yi Autonomous County (石林彝族自治县), Kunming City (昆明市), Yunnan Province. The village is situated to the west of Guishan Town, 4 kilometers from the town government, and is easily accessible via asphalt roads. It is 32 kilometers away from the county seat. The village is surrounded by scenic mountain ranges and is bordered by Haiyi Village (海邑村) to the east, Yizheng Village (宜政村) of Changhu Town (长湖镇) to the south, Yusheng Village (雨胜村) to the west, and Echongyi Village (额冲衣村) to the north. The village consists of two smaller groups: Da Nuohei (大糯黑) and Xiao Nuohei (小糯黑).
With a history of over 600 years, Nuohei Village is one of the best-preserved examples of Sani culture (撒尼文化), an ethnic group within the Yi people. The village is unique for its stone houses, made from layered limestone slabs, earning it the title of a “stone village” in central Yunnan. The population of Nuohei Village is approximately 1,506 people, with 99.8% of them belonging to the Sani ethnic group.
In recent years, Nuohei Village has developed a distinctive path to prosperity through cultural tourism by blending traditional stone architecture with local heritage and modern tourism models. The village now features 8 rural guesthouses and 24 guest rooms, with an annual average of 200,000 tourists and a tourism revenue of 3.4 million yuan. The village has earned multiple honors, including being named a National Key Village for Rural Tourism (全国乡村旅游重点村), China’s Traditional Villages (中国传统村落), National Ecological Village (国家级生态村), and National Civilized Village (全国文明村).
Geographical Environment
Nuohei Village lies in a karst landscape area (岩溶喀斯特地貌发育区), characterized by towering stone mountains. The villagers have historically used the unique stone formations to build their homes. The houses are constructed using layered limestone stones, creating a natural, solid structure. According to local tradition, the stones used for foundations are often enough to build a house. The stone houses are enclosed stone-wood buildings with purple-red painted wooden beams, doors, and windows, and the outer walls are made from stone slabs. The roofs are tiled with flat tiles and tubular tiles.
The village has an ancient charm, with rows of stone houses along a one-kilometer-long stone-paved road (青石板路). This road connects the various houses and creates the village’s “stone-built” character. Every household in Nuohei has ancient trees growing in their backyard, with dense branches reaching over the stone houses. The view is breathtaking with a clear blue sky, lush greenery, and the blending of blue, green, and stone, creating a beautiful landscape that symbolizes the Sani people’s (撒尼人) lifestyle.
Population and Culture
Nuohei Village maintains a pure Sani culture (撒尼文化). The population consists mostly of the Sani ethnic group, with only a few Han Chinese and Zhuang people. The villagers speak the Yi language (彝语) and celebrate traditional Yi festivals (彝族节日), maintaining ancient customs.
One of the most significant events is the Mi Zhi Festival (密枝节), held annually from the first rat day to the horse day of the lunar winter month. This festival is a sacred prayer for the prosperity of people and livestock and a rich harvest. The village holds a ritual during the day, and as night falls, villagers gather in the streets to chant “Hagou! Hagou!” and criticize those who have broken the law or acted immorally.
A traditional performance stage (石堆舞台) made of stone is built in the center of the village for celebrations. During holidays or slack seasons, local performers dress in traditional costumes and perform the Sani dances, especially the lively Daxian Dance (大三弦舞), a group dance performed to a self-played, self-danced rhythm.
History and Development
Nuohei Village was established in the 21st year of the Jiaqing reign (公元1816年) of the Qing Dynasty (清朝). Historically, it served as a stop along the ancient trade route connecting Luxi (泸西) to Kunming (昆明). During the period of warlord chaos, the villagers built stone walls and set up watchtowers for protection. At the village entrance, two stone tablets were once erected to record the history of the village in both Yi (彝文) and Chinese (汉文), but they were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (文化大革命).
The village is also significant for being the residence of Zhu Jiabi, the commander of the Border Area Military Division (边纵司令), who stayed here for 15 days. Additionally, the first newspaper under the leadership of the Communist Party of Yunnan Province, “Lunan News” (路南报), was created here during the Chinese Civil War.
Village Features
Nuohei Village’s distinctive stone architecture is its most remarkable feature. The houses, paths, and other village structures are all constructed from stone slabs, which have been meticulously cut and placed. The village is a perfect blend of natural beauty and human ingenuity. Its Sani culture is evident in the way the villagers live harmoniously with nature, creating an environment where Sani customs and stone structures coexist.
The village is surrounded by lush green mountains, and the paths between houses are narrow, fitting only two people side by side. This unique layout, combined with the deep connection to nature, makes Nuohei a peaceful, ancient village that preserves its original beauty.
Practical Information
Transportation to Nuohei Village
To reach Nuohei Village, take a minibus from Juhua Village Bus Station (昆明菊花村客运站) to Shilin County (石林县) for 10 yuan, then transfer to a small vehicle to reach Nuohei Village for 5 yuan.
Special Notes
Sun Protection: The sunlight in Kunming is strong during the day, so it’s advisable to bring sunscreen and sunglasses. Drink plenty of water and eat fruits to prevent dehydration.
Climate: Kunming is known for its “four seasons in one day” climate, where you can experience a mix of temperatures year-round. It is not uncommon to see people wearing clothes for different seasons at the same time.
Local Products and Shopping
Wax Printing
Wax printing is a traditional handmade textile from the ethnic minorities of Yunnan. The patterns are unique, blending ancient designs with modern touches. A piece of wax-printed fabric costs around 15 yuan.
Magnolia Flowers
Magnolia buds, known as “wood pens” or “Xin Yi” (辛夷), are used in traditional medicine and have cold-expelling and nasal-passage-clearing properties. The flowers are fried into magnolia cakes, which cost around 70 yuan per flower.
Yunnan Edible Mushrooms
Yunnan has a rich variety of edible mushrooms due to its favorable climate. The most famous and valuable are chicken foot mushrooms (鸡枞), matsutake (松茸), and bamboo fungus (竹荪). Prices range around 50 yuan.
Infrastructure
By 2010, Nuohei Village had 371 households with access to running water, 376 households with electricity, and 160 households with cable TV. The village has paved roads, and the nearest bus station and market are located about 4 kilometers away.
Economy and Agriculture
In 2010, the total rural economic income of Nuohei Village was 9.18 million yuan, with the main sources being crop farming (including corn, tobacco, and potatoes), livestock farming, and some income from seasonal labor. The village is focusing on developing its agricultural industry with a strong emphasis on corn, tobacco, and potatoes. The goal is to expand these industries to support long-term prosperity for the village.