Chinese Oolong Tea

1. Regional Varieties:

Tea Growing Regions

Chinese Oolong tea is produced in several regions, each with its distinct characteristics. The major production areas include Southern Fujian, Northern Fujian, Taiwan, and Guangdong.

• Northern Fujian: Known for a variety of Oolong tea, including Fujian Shui Xian (福建水仙), Rou Gui (肉桂), and Da Hong Pao (大红袍), among others.

• Southern Fujian: Famous for Tie Guan Yin (铁观音), Bai Ya Qi Lan (白芽奇兰), and Mei Zhan (梅占).

• Guangdong: Produces varieties such as Phoenix Shui Xian (凤凰水仙) and Lingtou Dancong (岭头单丛).

• Taiwan: Known for varieties such as Qing Xin Oolong (青心乌龙) and Jin Xuan (金萱).

Different regions of Oolong tea have distinct chemical compositions. For example, Guangdong Oolong has higher levels of water extractable substances, polyphenols, caffeine, and free amino acids, making it more robust and aromatic. Fujian Oolong, especially Tie Guan Yin, is famous for its delicate floral notes, while Taiwan’s Oolong teas are known for their sweet, fresh flavor. The quality of Oolong tea is also influenced by elevation, with high-altitude teas being richer in nitrogen compounds and offering a more refined taste.

Main Varieties

Oolong tea is closely associated with its unique varieties, each offering distinctive aromas and flavors.

Tie Guan Yin (安溪铁观音)

Tie Guan Yin, originating from Anxi County (安溪县) in Fujian Province (福建省), is one of China’s top ten teas and is considered one of the best Oolong varieties. The leaves are tightly rolled and resemble the shape of a dragonfly’s head or a frog’s legs. When brewed, the tea has a golden amber color and a rich orchid fragrance. The taste is full-bodied with a sweet aftertaste that lingers. It’s known for its “musical” aftertaste, where the fragrance remains even after several infusions.

Phoenix Shui Xian (凤凰水仙)

Produced in Chao’an Phoenix Township (潮安凤凰乡) in Guangdong Province (广东省), Phoenix Shui Xian is a type of Oolong tea known for its natural floral aroma and honey-like sweetness. The tea is thick, smooth, and refreshing, and it has a rich, long-lasting fragrance. It is prized for its bright, attractive appearance, and its tea leaves are large and glossy with a subtle sheen. This tea is popular both locally and internationally, especially in Hong Kong and Macau.

Dong Fang Mei Ren (东方美人)

Dong Fang Mei Ren, or Oriental Beauty, is a unique tea from Taiwan (台湾), also known as Pung Feng Tea (膨风茶). The tea is famous for its multicolored leaves—white, green, yellow, red, and brown—which give it a distinctive appearance. The flavor is rich, sweet, and full-bodied with fruity and honey-like notes. The tea’s amber-colored infusion and the noticeable white hairs on the tea buds make it a visually appealing tea.

Tea Characteristics

Each region’s Oolong tea has specific characteristics:

• Guangdong Oolong: Known for its strong, fresh taste with a rich fragrance and sweet, floral notes.

• Southern Fujian Oolong: Lighter and more delicate, with floral and fruity undertones.

• Northern Fujian Oolong: Rich in fragrance with a robust, slightly smoky flavor.

• Taiwan Oolong: Known for its creamy, sweet, and floral flavors with a smooth aftertaste.

The diversity of Oolong tea in China reflects the varying climates, altitudes, and traditional tea-making methods across regions, offering a wide range of flavors and fragrances for tea lovers worldwide.

1. Flavor Profile:
   • Oolong teas offer a wide range of flavors depending on the oxidation level and roasting. They can have floral, fruity, honey, roasted, or even creamy notes. The taste can be delicate and nuanced or bold and robust, depending on the specific tea.
2. Health Benefits:
   • Like other types of tea, Oolong tea is rich in antioxidants, which can help reduce oxidative stress in the body. It is also believed to promote metabolism and aid in weight management.
3. Cultural Significance:
   • Oolong tea holds a special place in Chinese tea culture, often enjoyed during elaborate tea ceremonies or casually during daily life. It represents a balance between the freshness of green tea and the robustness of black tea, appealing to a wide range of tea enthusiasts.

Processing Method

The production of Oolong tea involves a series of crucial steps: plucking, withering, shaking, fixing (heating), rolling, and drying.

Plucking and Withering

The plucking of Oolong tea leaves requires the leaves to be mature enough to maintain their integrity during the processing, ensuring the characteristic “green leaf, red edges” appearance. The withering process is done in different ways:

• Sun Withering: Leaves are spread out on a sieve and exposed to the sun, usually between 4:00 PM and 5:00 PM. This process softens the leaves, causing them to lose their shine and releasing a fresh aroma.

• Indoor and Heated Withering: In comparison, indoor or heated withering is considered less effective than sun withering. Over-withering can lead to a bitter taste, while insufficient withering results in a grassy flavor.

Shaking (做青)

The most critical step in Oolong tea production is “shaking” (做青), where the leaves are shaken to damage the edges and trigger oxidation. This process is done manually or mechanically, with the latter involving motorized machines to replace human labor. Proper shaking ensures that the tea leaves lose moisture without losing their vital nutrients, retaining their unique fragrance. The strength and method of shaking are vital in determining the quality of the tea.

Fixing (杀青)

After shaking, the leaves undergo fixing, or rapid heating, to stop further oxidation and preserve the flavor and aroma. The heating process must be carefully controlled to ensure that the tea retains its character while preventing over-heating, which could cause bitterness.

Rolling

The rolling process is essential to shape the tea leaves. There are different shapes for Oolong tea depending on the region:

• Wuyi Rock Tea (武夷岩茶) is rolled into a long, twisted shape.

• Tie Guan Yin (铁观音) is rolled into a pellet-like form.

• Zhangping Shui Xian (漳平水仙) is shaped into squares.

For Wuyi Rock Tea, the leaves are large and have low moisture content, requiring fast and brief rolling.

Drying

Drying is the final step, where moisture is removed from the leaves, and the leaves are fixed in their final shape. During the drying process, Oolong tea undergoes a controlled roasting, which enhances its flavor. There are two main stages of drying:

• Primary Drying (毛火): The tea is dried at a higher temperature until it reaches around 30% moisture content.

• Final Drying (足火): After the primary drying, the tea is allowed to cool and undergoes low-temperature roasting to complete the drying process. This is crucial for refining the tea’s fragrance and taste.

Roasting

Traditional Oolong tea roasting is done using charcoal, but modern methods often use electric ovens. However, it has been found that charcoal roasting delivers a richer, smoother taste compared to electric roasting. Roasting temperatures must be carefully controlled, with the ideal temperature being around 80°C for the best results.

Flavor Development

The unique flavor of Oolong tea is developed through careful processing, with the combination of rolling, drying, and roasting. The key to a good Oolong tea is to balance the bitterness from polyphenols and the richness from oxidation. With the right processing techniques, the tea will have a mellow, honey-like fragrance and taste.

Common Defects and Solutions

Broken Tea Leaves

• Cause: Over-heating during fixing or excessive pressure during rolling.

• Solution: Ensure proper control of heat and pressure in the early processing stages.

Loose Tea Leaves

• Cause: Old or coarse raw leaves, insufficient rolling.

• Solution: Adjust the amount of leaves used and the rolling time. For older leaves, extend the rolling time.

Dull Tea Color

• Cause: Excessive roasting or sun drying.

• Solution: Carefully control roasting temperatures and ensure even drying. Avoid over-sun-drying the leaves.

Red or Brown Tea Color

• Cause: Over-sun-drying or high temperature during fixing.

• Solution: Use drying mats to prevent direct contact with the ground, and adjust the drying temperature accordingly.

Green and Raw Taste

• Cause: Insufficient sun-drying or under-shaking during processing.

• Solution: Ensure sufficient time for sun-drying and shaking, and maintain an optimal temperature during the processing.

Sour or Off-flavor

• Cause: Incomplete fixing or prolonged rolling.

• Solution: Ensure proper fixing and avoid excessive rolling time.

Watery Taste

• Cause: Rainwater contamination or insufficient drying.

• Solution: Avoid picking tea leaves contaminated by rain, and ensure proper drying techniques.

Cloudy Tea Broth

• Cause: Insufficient fixing or over-roasting.

• Solution: Control fixing temperature, and avoid overheating the leaves.

Over-fermentation (红变)

• Cause: Over-fermentation or excessive shaking during processing.

• Solution: Control temperature in the shaking room to prevent excessive fermentation, and avoid starting the shaking process too intensely.

This careful balance of techniques ensures the production of premium Oolong tea, known for its unique aroma, flavor, and health benefits.

Nutritional Composition

Oolong tea contains over 450 organic chemical compounds and more than 40 inorganic mineral elements. These components contribute to the nutritional and medicinal properties of the tea. The organic chemical compounds primarily include polyphenols, alkaloids, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, pectin, organic acids, polysaccharides, sugars, enzymes, and pigments. Among the different types of Oolong tea, Tie Guan Yin (铁观音) contains significantly higher levels of organic compounds such as polyphenols, catechins, and various amino acids compared to other teas.

The inorganic mineral elements in Oolong tea include potassium, calcium, magnesium, cobalt, iron, manganese, aluminum, sodium, zinc, copper, nitrogen, phosphorus, and fluorine. Tie Guan Yin (铁观音) contains higher levels of minerals like manganese, iron, fluorine, potassium, and sodium compared to other tea varieties.

Health Benefits and Effects

The semi-fermented nature of Oolong tea makes its bioactive components more abundant, providing a wide range of health benefits. Studies have shown that Oolong tea offers antioxidant properties, helps reduce blood lipids, prevents cardiovascular diseases, fights diabetes, inhibits mutation and cancer growth, combats allergies, fights pathogens, and regulates gut microbiota. The beneficial effects may be attributed to the organic compounds in Oolong tea, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, and pigments, as well as trace elements like zinc, manganese, and copper, all of which possess antioxidant properties.

Research indicates that the polyphenols in Oolong tea effectively inhibit the proliferation and differentiation of α-amylase 3T3-L1 pre-adipocyte cells. Additionally, tea polysaccharides have been shown to reduce blood lipids, lower blood sugar, prevent blood clotting, and enhance immunity.

Precautions

Regular consumption of Oolong tea not only benefits human health but also adds enjoyment to life. However, there are three key precautions when drinking Oolong tea:

1. Do not drink on an empty stomach – This can cause feelings of hunger, dizziness, and nausea, commonly referred to as “tea intoxication.”

2. Avoid drinking before sleep – Oolong tea can make it difficult to fall asleep due to its caffeine content.

3. Avoid drinking cold Oolong tea – Cold tea is considered to be cold in nature, which can be detrimental to the stomach.

These three precautions are particularly important for those who are new to drinking Oolong tea, as it contains more polyphenols and caffeine than other types of tea.

Tea Brewing Guide

Water Quality and Equipment

The water used to brew Oolong tea should be free from pathogens and industrial pollutants. It should be clear, odorless, and free from any suspended particles, with a neutral pH of 7. The water should also have a fresh, slightly sweet taste and a permanent hardness not exceeding 8 degrees after boiling. Such water is ideal for brewing Oolong tea.

The tea brewing equipment used in the past was highly refined. Historically, the essential tools for brewing Oolong tea, known as the “Four Treasures of the Tea Room” (茶房四宝), included:

• Chaozhou Stove (潮汕炉): A small ceramic or metal stove from Chaozhou, Guangdong.

• Jade Teapot (玉书碨): A small kettle made of porcelain with a capacity of around 250 milliliters.

• Mengchen Pot (孟臣罐): A small Yixing teapot with a capacity of around 50 milliliters.

• Ruocheng Bowl (若琛瓯): A small white porcelain teacup from Jingdezhen, Jiangxi, with a capacity of about 5 milliliters.

Today, the essentials for brewing Oolong tea remain the same but have become more practical. Commonly used items include an electric stove, steel kettle (often combined as a “portable tea set”), a steel or plastic tea tray, and a white porcelain gaiwan (盖碗), which is 5.5 cm high, with a diameter of 8.2 cm and a bottom diameter of 4.5 cm. This type of gaiwan is convenient for holding tea leaves, smelling aromas, adding boiling water, and pouring out tea leaves.

Brewing Methods

Traditional Brewing Method

• Characteristics: Simple tools, free brewing method, and suitable for general consumption.

• Steps:

  1. Pre-warming the Teapot: Pour boiling water into the teapot until it overflows.

  2. Pour Out Water: Empty the water into a tea tray.

  3. Add Tea Leaves: Use a tea funnel to place tea leaves into the teapot with a tea spoon.

  4. Add Water: Pour hot water into the teapot until the foam overflows.

  5. Pour Tea:

     • Rotate the teapot along the tea tray counterclockwise, scraping off any drops of water at the bottom, called “General Guan Patrols the City” (关公巡城). This is to ensure the teapot is clean and the aroma of the tea remains.

     • Pour tea into a fairness cup for even distribution.

     • Pour tea into each cup, filling them to about 70%.

     • Tea is served either for self-drinking or by a dedicated tea server.

  6. Remove Tea Leaves: Use a tea strainer to remove tea leaves for future use.

Anxi Brewing Method (安溪泡法)

• Characteristics: Focuses on fragrance, sweetness, and purity, with a limit of 9 infusions, divided into 3 stages:

  • Stage 1: Check the fragrance.

  • Stage 2: Taste the flavor to ensure it is smooth and full-bodied.

  • Stage 3: Observe the color changes.

• Steps:

  1. Prepare Equipment: The tea pot should be the same as in the Chaozhou method, with a focus on warming the teapot first. Also, prepare a scent cup.

  2. Warm the Teapot and Cups: Similar to the Chaozhou method, warm both the teapot and the cups.

  3. Roast Tea Leaves: Roasting time is shorter than in Chaozhou, as high-quality tea is usually well-preserved.

  4. Add Tea: The amount of tea varies based on the tea type.

  5. Brew Tea: Pour water and immediately remove any foam. Pour the tea into the scent cups and serve.

  6. Shake the Pot: Shake the teapot vigorously between each infusion to ensure an even extraction of the tea leaves.

Chaozhou Brewing Method (潮州泡法)

• Characteristics: Ideal for rougher teas, focusing on unifying the aroma, energy, and spirit. The process emphasizes silence, minimal disturbance, and precise timing.

• Steps:

  1. Prepare Tea Equipment: Set up a tea tray, with the teapot and tea cups arranged symmetrically. A towel is placed over the lap, and another over the tea table.

  2. Warm the Teapot and Cups: Pour boiling water into both the teapot and cups.

  3. Dry the Teapot: Using a towel, gently pat the teapot to dry it.

  4. Add Tea: Place the tea leaves into the pot, depending on their dryness.

  5. Roast Tea Leaves: If the tea leaves are not damp, skip roasting; if they are, lightly roast them with hot water to remove any mildew odor.

  6. Wash the Cups: Pour boiling water into the tea cups to warm them.

  7. Brew Tea: Pour water into the teapot, shaking it to ensure even heat distribution.

  8. Shake the Pot: After brewing, quickly shake the teapot to mix the tea evenly.

  9. Pour Tea: Pour the tea into the tea sea. The first infusion should be poured gently, leaving the first cup for the server.

  10. Serve: After completing three infusions, serve tea to the guests.

Zhao’an Brewing Method (诏安泡法)

• Characteristics: Ideal for brewing aged tea, with particular attention paid to shaping the tea and washing the cups.

• Steps:

  1. Prepare Equipment: Place a cloth on the tea table, with the teapot in front and the tea tray below.

  2. Shape the Tea Leaves: Since aged tea tends to have more broken leaves, gently shake and arrange the tea leaves on a paper towel.

  3. Warm the Teapot: Pour hot water over the teapot and lid.

  4. Add Tea: After pouring out the warm water, place tea leaves in the pot, ensuring finer leaves are placed at the bottom.

  5. Brew Tea: Pour boiling water over the tea leaves and wait for the foam to overflow.

  6. Wash the Cups: Pour water into the cups to warm them.

  7. Pour Tea: Pour the tea gently into the cups using a steady pace.

  8. Clean the Tea Equipment: After serving, clean the cups and teapot for the next session.

Taiwanese Brewing Method (台湾泡法)

The Taiwanese Oolong tea is based on Chaozhou and Minnan tea brewing techniques. Popular Taiwanese Oolong teas include Dong Ding Oolong (冻顶乌龙), Wenshan Baozhong (文山包种), and Alishan Tea (阿里山茶).

• Steps:

  1. Arrange Equipment: Place the teapot and teacups on the tea tray, with a scent cup and tasting cup placed symmetrically.

  2. Appreciate the Tea: Use a tea spoon to gently place the tea leaves in the tea tray for guests to enjoy.

  3. Warm the Teapot and Cups: Fill the teapot with hot water, then pour it into the cups.

  4. Add Tea: Use a tea spoon to add 1/2 to 2/3 of the teapot’s capacity of tea leaves.

  5. Wash Tea: Pour boiling water into the teapot and let the tea steep briefly. Discard the first infusion.

  6. Brew the Tea: Brew the tea by pouring hot water into the teapot and letting it steep for about 1 minute, then pour it into the scent cups.

  7. Serve Tea: Place the scent and tasting cups together and serve them to guests.

  8. Taste the Tea: First, smell the tea, then taste it by sipping from the tasting cup.

With the correct brewing method, high-quality Oolong tea can be brewed many times, and the flavor, aroma, and color should remain consistent throughout the infusions.

Storage and Transportation Methods

The quality of tea is affected by five main factors: moisture, temperature, air, light, and odors. Typically, tea should be stored at low temperatures in a sealed, vacuum environment to preserve the color, aroma, and taste of Oolong tea. However, it is common to experience a decrease in flavor, aroma, and color even if the storage time is short, especially if the drying process after fermentation was not thorough.

Among modern storage methods, the best results are achieved with:

• Vacuum Nitrogen Packaging (抽气充氮贮藏法)

• Low-temperature Storage (低温贮藏法)

For small amounts of tea intended for home use, the following methods are commonly employed:

• Deoxygenation Preservation (脱氧保鲜贮藏法)

• Storage in Ordinary Iron Cans (普通铁罐贮藏法)

• Refrigerator Storage (冰箱冷藏法)

Tea Brewing Techniques

Oolong tea brewing involves a unique skill set, and the brewing process itself offers a certain charm. The tea-making method consists of eight essential steps.

Step 1: Boiling Water

The water should reach a rolling boil. When the water is boiling, rinse the teapot (or gaiwan) and teacups to warm them up and ensure hygiene. Afterward, place the Oolong tea leaves into the teapot or gaiwan. A standard amount is 5-10 grams for the gaiwan, or 1/4 to 1/3 of the volume of a small teapot.

Step 2: “Mountain Spring Boiling” (山泉初沸)

Pour the boiling water from a high position into the teapot or gaiwan. This allows the tea leaves to swirl, releasing their fragrance.

Step 3: “White Crane Bathing” (白鹤沐浴)

Once the water has filled the teapot or gaiwan, cover it with a lid and wait briefly. Then, gently remove any floating foam, leaving the tea clean and fresh.

Step 4: “High Pouring the Kettle” (悬壶高冲) and “Spring Breeze Blowing” (春风拂面)

After the first steeping, pour the tea from a high position to help the tea leaves rotate and open up, enhancing the aroma.

Step 5: “Guang Gong Patrols the City” (关公巡城) and “Han Xin Deploys His Troops” (韩信点兵)

After 1-2 minutes (depending on the desired strength), use your thumb and middle fingers to gently hold the gaiwan, pressing down the lid with your index finger. Pour the tea into small teacups, starting from the first and moving in a circular motion to distribute the tea evenly. When reaching the strongest part of the brew, pour the remaining tea evenly into each cup, ensuring a balanced flavor.

Step 6: “Tasting the Sweet Dew” (品啜甘霖)

Once the tea is poured into the cups, it should be enjoyed while it is still hot. First, inhale the aroma, then sip the tea, allowing the fragrance and taste to linger in the mouth. The flavor should be smooth, leaving a sweet aftertaste and refreshing sensation.

Step 7: Re-steeping the Tea

For subsequent steepings, repeat the process using boiling water, with each infusion slightly longer than the previous one. The steeping time varies depending on the tea quality. High-quality Oolong teas, like Tie Guan Yin (铁观音), can be steeped 7-8 times without losing their flavor and fragrance.

National Standards for Oolong Tea

China has established the following standards for Oolong tea, ensuring the quality and consistency of the tea across different varieties:

• GB/T 30357.1-2013: Oolong Tea – Part 1: Basic Requirements (乌龙茶 第1部分：基本要求)

• GB/T 30357.2-2013: Oolong Tea – Part 2: Tie Guan Yin (乌龙茶 第2部分：铁观音)

• GB/T 30357.3-2015: Oolong Tea – Part 3: Huangjingui (乌龙茶 第3部分：黄金桂)

• GB/T 30357.4-2015: Oolong Tea – Part 4: Shuixian (乌龙茶 第4部分：水仙)

• GB/T 30357.5-2015: Oolong Tea – Part 5: Rougui (乌龙茶 第5部分：肉桂)