Shaxi Ancient Town in Dali
Shaxi Ancient Town, located in Jianchuan County (剑川县) in Dali (大理), Yunnan (云南), is one of the most well-preserved historical towns in the province. Situated between Lijiang (丽江) and Dali, Shaxi offers travelers a rare glimpse into ancient Bai (白族) and Yi (彝族) cultures, rich in history and folklore. The town has managed to retain its authentic charm and significance as a crucial point on the Tea Horse Road (茶马古道), a historical trade route that connected China with Tibet (西藏) and beyond.
In-Depth History of Shaxi Ancient Town and the Tea Horse Road
Shaxi’s role as a trade hub began around 700 AD during the Tang Dynasty (唐朝), when it became a vital trading post along the Tea Horse Road. This trade route saw the exchange of tea from Yunnan (云南) for horses from the Tibetan Plateau (西藏高原) and beyond. The prosperity of the town during its peak is evident in the numerous historical structures and the enduring traditions of its residents.
The town flourished during the Song Dynasty (宋朝, 960-1279) and continued to be a hub of commerce during the Qing Dynasty (清朝, 1644-1911). However, as the trade routes gradually shifted and the prominence of the Tea Horse Road waned, Shaxi became a quiet, almost forgotten place. Yet, the Friday market, which has been held since 1415, has continued to thrive, maintaining a vital cultural link to the past.
Shaxi’s Architectural and Cultural Heritage
The architecture of Shaxi is one of the most remarkable features of the town. The Bai People (白族), who dominate the area, are known for their unique style of building, which blends wooden carvings, spacious courtyards, and intricate roofing designs. Many of the town’s historic structures have been carefully preserved or restored, providing an immersive experience for visitors.
Sideng Street (寺登街) – The Heart of Shaxi
Sideng Street is the main thoroughfare of Shaxi Ancient Town and the place where the town’s rich history and culture come alive. The street is composed of several distinct parts:
Old Market Square Theater (寺登戏台): This is the vibrant center of cultural life in Shaxi. Historically, the square was a place where locals and traders gathered to perform folk art and celebrate traditional festivals.
Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺): Built during the Ming Dynasty (明朝, 1368–1644), this Buddhist temple is the oldest of its kind in Shaxi. It is now a museum dedicated to the Shaxi Rehabilitation Project (SRP), which focuses on preserving the cultural and architectural heritage of the town.
Ouyang Courtyard (欧阳大院): This historic residence belonged to the wealthy Ouyang family (欧阳家族), who were prominent figures along the Tea Horse Road. The courtyard is an excellent example of traditional Bai folk architecture and features exquisite wooden carvings, painted shutters, and ornate detailing that have survived over a century.
Yujin Bridge (玉津桥): Spanning across the eastern gateway of the town, this Qing Dynasty (清朝) stone bridge is an iconic landmark in Shaxi. Its 35.4-meter-long structure was used by caravans and remains a testament to the town’s history as a bustling trade route.
Friday Market (星期五市集) – A Living Tradition
The Friday Market is the most enduring legacy of the Tea Horse Road. Held weekly since 1415, it is the last remaining market of its kind on the ancient trade route. The market, originally modest, has grown over the centuries into a large, vibrant gathering where Bai (白族) and Yi (彝族) farmers, artisans, and traders sell their goods, including handcrafted textiles, wild herbs, vegetables, and even goats’ cheese and traditional medicines.
The market is held every Friday at the Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺) and is one of the best places to experience the authentic life of the region’s people. On market day, you’ll find Shaxi’s residents dressed in traditional clothes, exchanging goods and stories, while tourists and photographers take in the vivid colors and sounds.
Festivals and Local Culture
Shaxi is home to a rich tapestry of local festivals that showcase the traditions of the Bai and Yi ethnic groups. These festivals are an excellent way to experience the town’s cultural vibrancy firsthand.
Taizihui Holiday (太子会)
The Taizihui Holiday is held annually on the eighth day of the second lunar month and is one of Shaxi’s most significant religious events. It is dedicated to Shakyamuni Buddha (释迦牟尼) and marks the day when Buddha decided to become a teacher for all living beings. During this time, Buddhists (佛教徒) gather at the Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺) to perform rituals and seek blessings.
Torch Festival (火把节)
The Torch Festival is one of the grandest celebrations in Shaxi, particularly important for the Bai and Yi people. Held in the 6th lunar month, this festival marks the end of the harvest season. The Yi people light massive torches to scare away pests, while the Bai people celebrate with dancing, singing, and traditional games. The highlight of the festival is the torchlight processions, where participants dance and sing around large bonfires.
Shaxi’s Natural Surroundings and Nearby Attractions
Shaxi is nestled between stunning mountain ranges and is surrounded by lush landscapes that are perfect for hiking and nature lovers. One of the must-see places near Shaxi is Shibao Mountain (石宝山), a stunning natural area just 25 kilometers southwest of Jianchuan County (剑川县).
Shibao Mountain Scenic Area
Shibao Mountain is famous for its Danxia landforms and historical Buddhist sites. Some of the key attractions at Shibao Mountain include:
Haiyunju Scenic Area: Facing the distant Lijiang Jade Snow Mountain (丽江玉龙雪山), this area is home to the first Buddhist temple of Shibao Mountain. The scenic views from here are breathtaking.
Baoxiang Temple (宝相寺): Known as the Hanging Temple of Yunnan (云南), this temple is built on a near-vertical cliff, offering an awe-inspiring view of the landscape.
Shizhongshan Grottoes (石钟山石窟): These ancient grottoes were built during the Nanzhao (南诏) and Dali Kingdom (大理国) periods and contain some of the best-preserved Buddhist carvings in Yunnan. They are a must-visit for anyone interested in ancient history and Buddhist art.
Golden Monkeys and the Song Association
A rare and exciting aspect of Shibao Mountain is the opportunity to encounter Golden Monkeys (金丝猴), a species as precious as Pandas. Hiking through the scenic trails may bring you face to face with these incredible creatures. Additionally, the Shibao Mountain Song Association (石宝山歌会), held during the seventh lunar month, features a Bai (白族) singing competition and is one of the most spectacular traditional festivals in the region.
How to Get to Shaxi
From Dali (大理): Shaxi is about 2.5-3 hours by car from Dali, and buses can take you to Jianchuan County (剑川县), from where you can transfer to a local minibus.
From Lijiang (丽江): Shaxi is approximately 107 kilometers southwest of Lijiang. The bus ride from Lijiang Coach Station (丽江客运站) to Jianchuan County takes about 2.5-3 hours, and then you can take a minibus for another hour to reach Shaxi.
Where to Stay in Shaxi
Luxury Hotels:
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Shaxi Old Theatre Inn (沙溪古戏台会馆): A restored boutique hotel housed in an ancient temple courtyard, offering a blend of heritage and modern comfort.
Mid-Range Hotels:
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Dali Shaxi Cato’s Inn (大猫驿客栈): A cozy inn located near the heart of Shaxi, offering amenities such as cycling, hiking, and BBQ facilities.
Budget Options:
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Shaxi Xiaolazhe Yododo Inn (肖拉者游多多客栈): A simple but comfortable guesthouse located close to the Shaxi Old Town Parking Lot, offering great views of the surrounding mountains.
How to Plan Your Dali, Shaxi, Lijiang Tour
Shaxi (沙溪), located between Dali (大理) and Lijiang (丽江), offers a fantastic opportunity for a leisurely stopover while traveling between these two iconic destinations. Whether you have just a few hours or a couple of days, Shaxi provides a perfect blend of history, culture, and nature to enrich your travel experience.
Dali to Shaxi
By Car: The drive from Dali (大理) to Shaxi (沙溪) takes approximately 2.5-3 hours. The scenic journey allows you to enjoy the beautiful landscapes of Yunnan (云南).
By Coach: You can also take a coach to Jianchuan County (剑川县), which takes about 2.5-3 hours. From there, you’ll need to transfer to a local minibus for a 1-hour ride to Shaxi. This option provides a more affordable way to reach the town.
Lijiang to Shaxi
By Car: The distance between Lijiang (丽江) and Shaxi (沙溪) is approximately 107 km, and the drive will take you about 2.5-3 hours. The route passes through some of the stunning natural landscapes of Yunnan.
By Coach: Coaches leave daily from Lijiang Coach Station (丽江客运站) to Jianchuan County (剑川县), taking around 2.5-3.5 hours. Once you arrive in Jianchuan, you’ll transfer to a local minibus for the remaining 1-hour journey to Shaxi.
Suggested Itinerary
Here’s a recommended itinerary to help you make the most of your trip:
Day 1: Arrival in Dali
Morning: Arrive in Dali (大理), explore the Dali Old Town, visit Erhai Lake (洱海), and see Three Pagodas (三塔).
Afternoon: Enjoy a leisurely stroll in Dali’s charming streets and cafes, with time to enjoy the local Bai culture (白族).
Evening: Stay overnight in Dali.
Day 2: Dali to Shaxi
Morning: Drive to Shaxi (沙溪), enjoying the scenic beauty of the Yunnan countryside along the way.
Afternoon: Explore Sideng Street (寺登街), Xingjiao Temple (兴教寺), Ouyang Courtyard (欧阳大院), and the ancient Yujin Bridge (玉津桥).
Evening: If it’s a Friday, don’t miss the vibrant Friday Market (星期五市集) where locals gather to sell their goods.
Overnight: Stay in a local guesthouse in Shaxi.
Day 3: Shaxi to Lijiang
Morning: After breakfast, enjoy more time in Shaxi, perhaps hiking around or exploring the surrounding natural beauty.
Afternoon: Drive to Lijiang (丽江), which will take about 2.5-3 hours.
Evening: Check into your accommodation in Lijiang and enjoy a relaxing evening in the Old Town (古城).
Day 4: Explore Lijiang
Morning: Visit Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭), Mu Family Mansion (木府), and explore the charming lanes of Lijiang Old Town.
Afternoon: Optionally, take a day trip to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (玉龙雪山) or Tiger Leaping Gorge (虎跳峡).
Evening: Experience the vibrant night markets and try local Naxi cuisine in Lijiang.
Travel Tips
Plan Your Journey Around Friday: If you’re visiting Shaxi on a Friday, be sure to check out the Friday Market (星期五市集), as it’s a unique cultural experience.
Weather: The weather in Shaxi, Dali, and Lijiang can vary, so it’s advisable to bring layers, especially if traveling to higher altitudes like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Local Cuisine: Don’t miss trying local delicacies, especially Bai (白族) and Naxi (纳西族) dishes, such as grilled fish and wild mushrooms.
