Felt hat and "niuda" of Tu Ethnic Group

The clothing and head ornaments of the Tu ethnic group (土族) reflect the harmonious blend of pastoral and agricultural lifestyles, showcasing unique, bright, and colorful styles. Their attire and decorations not only indicate social status but also carry deep cultural symbolism, making them an essential experience for visitors interested in ethnic traditions.

Traditional Clothing of the Tu People

Men’s Attire:
Men, especially aged 30–50, often wear gowns with small collars and oblique front closures, or high-collared embroidered white short gowns, paired with black or purple sleeveless jackets and trousers.

Women’s Attire:
Women wear high-collar gowns with oblique fronts, with sleeves joined from multicolored cloth or silk. Their skirts and trousers are typically red, and decorative embroidery is applied on the collar, cuffs, hems, and front panels, creating vibrant patterns that are both beautiful and culturally significant.

Felt Hats (毡帽) of the Tu People

A defining feature of Tu attire is the round roll-brim felt hat, widely worn by both men and women, each with distinct characteristics:

Women’s Felt Hats:

• Colors: Brown or white
• Brim: High, even, and decorated with brocade lace
• Nickname: “Pulling gold lock” felt hat due to intricate adornments

Men’s Felt Hats:

• Colors: White or black
• Shape: The back brim rolls up while the front extends forward, forming a shape known as “hawk’s mouth pecking food”, lower at the front and higher at the back

Felt hats are not just functional; they symbolize status, identity, and ethnic pride.

“Niuda” – Traditional Women’s Head Ornaments (扭达)

“Niuda” (扭达) is a traditional Tu term meaning “head ornaments” and is mainly worn by women, especially in Huzhu Tu Autonomous County (互助土族自治县, Qinghai 青海省). There are 8–9 representative types, each with unique shapes and symbolic meaning.

Tuhun Niuda (吐浑扭达) – Solid Food Head

• Shape: Round pancake, the most honored and eldest form
• Construction:
  1. Round cloth (23–24 cm diameter) with triangular patterns from colored cloth strips
  2. Brim decorated with two layers of colored threads and thin tassels
  3. Front center adorned with two bunches of tassels (14–15 cm)
  4. Back brim inserted with nearly a hundred sparkling steel needles
  5. Attached with rectangular copper plates, silk threads, and a semi-lunar “sujirige” (cow tail or long hair)
  6. Silver xiangdou (bowl-shaped ornament) fastened on top, decorated with long red silk tassels
• Overall: Luxurious, visually striking, combining silver, silk, and vibrant colors

Shige Niuda – Winnowing Fan Head Ornament

• Shape: Big winnowing fan
• Construction: Soft elastic achnatherum frame, pasted with hard paper or coarse cloth, decorated with gold and silver foil, multicolored cloth strips, mica sheets, and red silk tassels
• Symbolism: Elegance and festivity, often used in ceremonial dances

Naren Niuda – Three-Pronged Head Ornament

• Feature: Copper three-pronged sword erected at the back of the head
• Significance: Power and status display

Other types include:

• Jiasi Niuda (share top ornament)
• Jiamu Niuda
• Xuegulang Niuda
• Suobudou Niuda

In recent years, fewer women wear these traditional ornaments daily. Most now braid their hair in two long plaits and wear roll-brim felt hats with brocade lace, maintaining a modern adaptation of traditional elegance.

Tourism Experience

Visitors to Huzhu and surrounding Tu villages can see these head ornaments during cultural festivals, folk performances, and wedding exhibitions. Photography and guided tours often provide hands-on demonstrations, where travelers can learn about the intricate crafting techniques of the niuda and appreciate the cultural symbolism behind Tu attire.

Experiencing the Tu felt hats and niuda offers a deep insight into ethnic identity, social hierarchy, and artistry, making it a must-see for cultural travelers exploring Qinghai’s rich heritage.