Sera Monastery in Lhasa

Sera Monastery (色拉大乘寺), one of the Six Great Gelugpa Monasteries (藏传佛教格鲁派六大主寺) of Tibetan Buddhism, is located about 3 kilometers north of Lhasa (拉萨市) at the foothills of Sera Uzi Mountain (色拉乌孜山). Along with Drepung Monastery (哲蚌寺) and Ganden Monastery (甘丹寺), Sera Monastery forms the Three Great Monasteries of Lhasa (拉萨三大寺). Of these, Sera was the last to be built. Sera Monastery has been designated as a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit (全国重点文物保护单位).

Founded in 1419 during the Yongle Period of the Ming Dynasty (明永乐十七年), Sera Monastery was established by Jamchen Chojey (绛钦却杰), a disciple of Tsongkhapa (宗喀巴), the founder of the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism. By the time it reached its peak, the monastery housed more than 8,000 monks, making it one of the largest Tibetan Buddhist monasteries, second only to Drepung.

Historical Significance

The monastery contains numerous bronze Buddha statues and thangka paintings (唐卡). Among the most renowned statues is the “Mahakala” (马头明王) statue housed in the main hall. Additionally, a significant Ming Dynasty manuscript of the Kangyur (甘珠尔) printed in 1410 under the reign of the Yongle Emperor (永乐皇帝) is preserved at the monastery. This was the first Tibetan printed version of the Buddhist Canon and is a crucial artifact in the study of Tibetan Buddhism and printing history.

Main Buildings

The Assembly Hall (措钦大殿)

The Assembly Hall (措钦大殿) is the largest structure in Sera Monastery and serves as the administrative center for religious affairs. It was originally constructed in 1710 by Lhasang Khan (拉藏汗), a descendant of the Gushi Khan (固始汗), under direct sponsorship.

  • The hall is a four-story building with a large courtyard that measures approximately 2000 square meters. The main entrance of the hall faces south, with double-row columns and colorful murals depicting the Four Heavenly Kings (四大天王).

  • Inside, the hall is supported by 89 long columns and 36 short columns, covering nearly 2000 square meters.

  • The hall houses several important statues, including the “Maitreya” (弥勒菩萨) statue and the **5-meter-high gilded copper statue of Jampa Buddha (强巴佛).

The Giza Zang (吉扎仓)

The Giza Zang (吉扎仓) is the largest Zacang (扎仓) in the monastery, covering an area of 1702 square meters. It was established in 1435 by Gonchulok (贡久洛真·仁钦僧格), a disciple of Tsongkhapa. The building houses numerous stupa relics (灵塔) and statues of famous Tibetan figures, such as Jetsun Milarepa (杰尊米拉热巴) and Lama Tsongkhapa (宗喀巴师徒三尊).

The Giza Zang also has several halls dedicated to prominent Tibetan figures, such as Maitreya and The Sixteen Arhats (十六罗汉), as well as Buddhist guardians.

The Mazha Zang (麦扎仓)

The Mazha Zang (麦扎仓) is another early building of Sera Monastery. It was originally established in 1419 by Shakyamuni (释迦牟尼). The hall was reconstructed in 1761 by Gonchen Tsang (贡钦·强曲彭巴) after being struck by lightning.

  • The Mazha Zang is 1620 square meters in size and houses several statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (释迦牟尼佛), as well as a depiction of Maitreya and Medicine Buddha (药师佛).

The building is home to spiritual statues and thangka paintings, and it was historically a place for learning and discussions on Tibetan Buddhism.

The Aba Zang (阿巴扎仓)

The Aba Zang (阿巴扎仓) is an important early structure within the monastery, established in 1419 by Shakyamuni. Initially serving as the main hall, it became a secret doctrine center after the construction of the Assembly Hall (措钦大殿) in 1710.

  • The hall spans 1517 square meters and features paintings of the Life of Buddha and various Dharma protectors (护法神). Statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Jampa Buddha, and Jetsun Milarepa are housed in this building.

Art and Murals

Sera Monastery boasts an impressive collection of murals (壁画) that cover the walls of many of its halls. The murals depict important Buddhist stories, such as the Life of Buddha, Bodhisattvas, and various Dharma protectors. These artworks provide valuable insight into Tibetan Buddhist iconography and artistic traditions.

The “Six Perfections” (六庄严) murals on the walls are particularly significant, illustrating the teachings of Nagarjuna (龙树) and Shantideva (圣天), among other key Buddhist figures.

Notable Artifacts

The monastery’s collection also includes stupas (灵塔) dedicated to famous monks and figures in Tibetan Buddhism, such as the 8th Dalai Lama (第八世达赖) and the 13th Dalai Lama (第十三世达赖). Additionally, several thangka paintings of Avalokiteshvara (观音菩萨) and other deities adorn the walls of the monastery, contributing to its spiritual and cultural significance.

Tourist Information

  • Opening Hours: 08:30 AM – 05:00 PM

  • Ticket Price: 598 RMB (including a guided tour)

  • Location: Sera Road No. 1, Chengguan District, Lhasa, Tibet Autonomous Region (拉萨市城关区色拉路1号)

  • Completion Date: 1434 (明宣德九年)

  • Main Attractions: Aba Zang (阿巴扎仓), Mazha Zang (麦扎仓), Assembly Hall (措钦大殿)

Visiting Time

Sera Monastery is suitable for visits during all seasons, and it is recommended to spend 2 to 3 hours exploring the main halls, murals, and relics.

History and Development

Before the construction of Sera Monastery (色拉寺), Master Tsongkhapa (宗喀巴) used to give teachings and write important texts at a small temple located on the eastern hillside of what is now Sera Monastery, known as Sera Qudong (色拉曲顶). He prophesied that a monastery dedicated to the promotion of Middle Way philosophy (中观思想) would be established in this location. Tsongkhapa instructed his great disciple, Shakyamuni Yixi (释迦益西), to build the monastery. Shakyamuni Yixi (1352–1435) was one of Tsongkhapa’s most prominent disciples and a key figure in the Gelug tradition (格鲁派). In 1409, he was invited to Beijing by the Ming Emperor Yongle (明成祖帝), and in 1434, Emperor Xuanzong (明宣宗) bestowed upon him the title “Great Compassion Dharma King” (大慈法王), thus earning him the title Jiangqin Qujie (绛钦曲结). He was the first to build a Gelug monastery in mainland China, laying the foundation for the relationship between the Ming Dynasty and the Gelug sect.

In 1419, with the support of Namkhah Sangbu (南喀桑布), the leader of the Nuwo Tribe (纽吾宗), Shakyamuni Yixi established Sera Monastery. The monastery gradually expanded to include three Zakhang (扎仓) and thirty-two Kangcun (康村). It covered an area of 114,964 square meters, and while it was initially intended to accommodate 5,500 monks, the number later reached as high as 9,000. The main structures include the Chöchin Main Hall (措钦大殿), Giza Zakhang (吉扎仓), Miza Zakhang (麦扎仓), Abba Zakhang (阿巴扎仓), and Kangcun (康村). Early buildings focused around Miza Zakhang and Abba Zakhang, and successive renovations expanded the monastery to its current scale. The architectural layout is compact but organized, adhering to the distinct characteristics of a large Gelug monastery.

During the first 47 years of the monastery’s establishment, four Zakhang were formed, each with a teacher specializing in the transmission of Buddhist teachings. The Zakhang contributed greatly to the growth and development of Sera Monastery.

Key Historical Figures

Shakyamuni Yixi (释迦益西), a close disciple of Tsongkhapa (宗喀巴), was instrumental in spreading the teachings of the Gelug tradition in Tibet and China. He played a key role in building bridges between the Ming Dynasty and the Gelug sect.

During the 15th century, disputes and jealousies among some of Tsongkhapa’s disciples led the monk Gönchok (贡钦洛卓仁青) to leave Drepung Monastery (哲蚌寺) and move to Sera Monastery, where he attracted many disciples and contributed to the monastery’s rapid development.

In 1705, the Qing Dynasty (清朝) Emperor Kangxi (康熙) sent reinforcements to Tibet. During this period, Sera Monastery witnessed multiple changes. The monastery was damaged by flooding, but a new assembly hall was built, and the former hall was given to the private use of Lhasa Khan (拉藏汗). The Abba Zakhang (阿巴扎仓) was then established.

Rebuilding and Support from the Qing Dynasty

In 1717, following the destruction of Lhasa Khan’s army by the Dzungar Mongols, the Abba Zakhang (阿巴扎仓) was nearly disbanded. However, three senior monks appealed to the Qing Emperor, who provided support to restore the Abba Zakhang. By 1722, it was fully repaired and became an important center for the practice of esoteric Buddhism (密宗仪轨). This restoration marked the beginning of a period of stability and continued growth for Sera Monastery.

Since the Third Plenary Session of the 11th Central Committee (十一届三中全会), China’s ethnic and religious policies have been implemented, leading to continuous restoration and expansion of monasteries like Sera Monastery. The restoration efforts have improved the lives of elderly monks, ensuring their well-being, and offered young monks the opportunity to pursue studies in Buddhist scriptures, calligraphy, and cultural education.

Monastic Regulations

Sera Monastery (色拉寺) follows a structured system of studying the Five Great Buddhist Texts (五部大论). The curriculum is similar to that of Ganden Monastery (甘丹寺) and Drepung Monastery (哲蚌寺), with different classes and teaching durations tailored to the specific needs of the students.

Class Structure

  • Miza Zakhang and Abba Zakhang both consist of thirteen classes, but the naming conventions and duration of studies differ. For instance, the Miza Zakhang has a class on Abhidharma (摄类学) that lasts for three years, while the Perfection of Wisdom (波罗密多) class lasts for five years. Each class requires two to four years of study, leading to a total of approximately 22 years to complete all classes.

Journey of a Monk

Monks in the Lhasa region (拉萨) usually take their vows at the age of seven and enter the monastery, beginning their studies with memorizing prayers and scriptures. By the age of 10, they start studying the Five Great Texts, and after completing all classes, they are usually given the title of Geshe (格西) at the age of 23. Some monks may take much longer, especially those from distant regions such as Amdo (安多) or Mongolia.

Monks spend years preparing for the Ganden Tripa (甘丹赤巴), a highly prestigious position in the Gelug tradition. The exams and debates leading to this title can take decades to complete. Only a few exceptional monks become Ganden Tripa before the age of 70.

Artifacts and Treasures

Sera Monastery (色拉寺) houses a vast collection of Buddhist relics, statues, scriptures, thangkas (唐卡), and ritual implements. Among the treasures is a set of 108 volumes of the Tripitaka (大藏经), commissioned by Emperor Yongle of the Ming Dynasty (明永乐) in 1416, and a collection of 18 Arhat statues carved in sandalwood. These items are highly regarded for their artistic and historical significance.

In the Chöchin Main Hall (措钦大殿), there are over 200 volumes of the Kangyur and Tengyur scriptures written in gold ink. The Giza Zakhang (吉扎仓) houses a unique brass bell with a “Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl” (二龙戏珠) motif, dating back to the Ming Dynasty. The monastery also boasts numerous Tibetan-made bronze statues of Buddha and other sacred items.

Myths and Legends

There are two primary legends regarding the name “Sera” (色拉). One story suggests that a fierce hailstorm occurred during the foundation of the monastery, and the Tibetan word for hail sounds like “Sera.” Hence, the monastery was named “Hailstorm Monastery.” Another legend claims the monastery was built in an area where wild rose bushes (also called “Sera” in Tibetan) bloomed, giving rise to the name.

Major Events and Festivals

Sera Bengqin Festival

The Sera Bengqin (色拉崩钦) Festival is a major event at the monastery, centered around the blessing of the Vajra (金刚杵). This ritual, which originated in India in the 15th century, has monks carry the Vajra from Sera Monastery to the Potala Palace (布达拉宫) for a blessing from the Dalai Lama (达赖喇嘛). The Vajra is then returned to the monastery, where monks bless the faithful by striking their heads with it.

Debating Monks

One of the most iconic features of Sera Monastery is the daily debating sessions (辩经) held by the monks. These debates are a lively and intellectual exchange of Buddhist philosophy, where monks use gestures and body movements to emphasize their arguments. These debates are not only a means of learning but also a way to display mastery of Buddhist teachings.

The debating halls (辩经场) are filled with monks engaging in these challenging and dynamic exchanges. Visitors can witness the unique methods used during the debates, including the famous “clapping” gesture to emphasize points.

Artifacts and Cultural Relics

Sera Monastery (色拉寺) houses an extensive collection of priceless Buddhist relics, statues, thangkas (唐卡), scriptures, ritual instruments, and offerings. According to the History of the Ming Dynasty (《明史》), when Shakyamuni Yixi (释迦益西) returned to Tibet from Beijing during the 14th year of the Yongle Emperor (明永乐十四年, 1416), he brought with him numerous sacred gifts, including Buddhist scriptures (佛经), statues, ritual staffs (法杖), monk robes, fine silks, and gold and silver artifacts. Among the treasures were the Kangyur (甘珠尔) and Tengyur (丹珠尔) scriptures, printed with cinnabar (朱砂), and a set of 108 volumes, as well as sandalwood-carved statues of 18 Arhats (罗汉) and the Four Heavenly Kings (四大天王).

One of the most famous artifacts is a colorful silk brocade thangka of Shakyamuni Yixi (释迦益西), measuring 109 cm in length and 64 cm in width, which includes a frame that extends the overall size to 180 cm by 90 cm. This thangka, which depicts Shakyamuni Yixi seated on a Dharma throne (法床) with a Buddhist canopy (华盖) overhead, has remained vibrant in color despite over 500 years of history. It is currently housed in the Tibet Museum (西藏博物馆).

Inside the Chöchin Main Hall (措钦大殿), there are over 200 volumes of Kangyur and Tengyur scriptures transcribed in gold ink. At Giza Zakhang (吉扎仓), one can find a copper cymbal (铜钹) engraved with the motif of “Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl” (二龙戏珠), with an inscription that reads “Made during the Ming Xuande Era” (大明宣德加金银造). The walls of Giza Zakhang are adorned with various suits of armor, bows, arrows, shields, and hats, which are believed to be weapons from the time of the 9th generation Tibetan King (藏王), capable of warding off evil spirits and demons.

Moreover, Sera Monastery also treasures thousands of golden copper statues of Buddha from Tibet, brass Buddha statues from India, Buddhist scriptures, murals, thangkas, and ritual tools.

Legends Behind the Name

There are two main legends regarding the origin of the name “Sera” (色拉) for the monastery. One suggests that during the construction of the monastery, a fierce hailstorm occurred, and the Tibetan word for hail (冰雹) is “Sera,” hence the name “Hailstorm Monastery.” Another version claims that the monastery was built in an area where wild rose bushes (野蔷薇) bloomed, and “Sera” is also the Tibetan word for wild rose. The full name of the monastery is “Sera Mahayana Monastery” (色拉大乘寺).

Major Religious Events

Sera Monastery (色拉寺) is home to the grand Sera Bengqin Festival (色拉崩钦), which is dedicated to the consecration of the Vajra (金刚杵). It is said that in the late 15th century, a Vajra arrived from India, known as the “Flying Vajra” (飞来杵). On the 27th day of the 12th month in the Tibetan lunar calendar, it is brought into the Denzong Protector Shrine (丹增护法神殿) and worshipped by the monks. Historically, each year, a Dharmapala (执法者) would ride a fast horse to deliver the Vajra to the Potala Palace (布达拉宫) for consecration by the Dalai Lama (达赖喇嘛). After receiving the blessing, the Vajra would be returned to Sera Monastery, where the Khenpo (堪布) of Giza Zakhang would bestow blessings by striking the heads of the monks and the devotees who had gathered, symbolizing the protection of the Buddha, Bodhisattvas, and Dharma protectors.

This event draws tens of thousands of devotees every year, who come to receive the blessing by the Vajra.

Travel Highlights

Vajra Blessing Ceremony

The Sera Bengqin Festival is one of the most remarkable events at Sera Monastery (色拉寺). During this event, the consecration of the Vajra and the subsequent blessing ceremony are highly revered. The presence of the Dalai Lama (达赖喇嘛) and the Vajra’s journey from Sera Monastery to the Potala Palace (布达拉宫) offer a once-in-a-lifetime experience for travelers.

The Head of Manjushri (文殊菩萨) Statue

One of the most famous statues in Sera Monastery is the Manjushri (文殊菩萨) statue housed in the Giza Zakhang (吉扎仓). This statue features the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, who listens intently with an ear turned toward the visitor. Local pilgrims believe that by placing their heads into a small niche beneath the statue and touching its base, they can receive a blessing of wisdom.

The Golden Edition of the Kangyur

Another priceless treasure at Sera Monastery is the golden ink copy of the Kangyur (甘珠尔) and Tengyur (丹珠尔) scriptures, which were gifted to the monastery by Emperor Yongle (永乐皇帝) of the Ming Dynasty (明朝) in 1410. These are the first Kangyur scriptures to be printed using the woodblock printing technique, and they are considered a significant contribution to Tibetan Buddhist literature.

The Sun-Bathing Buddha Ceremony

Located in the northeastern part of Sera Monastery (色拉寺), the Sun-Bathing Buddha Terrace (晒佛台) offers a panoramic view of the entire monastery. During the Shoton Festival (雪顿节), the Sun-Bathing Buddha Ceremony is held here, where a giant Buddha thangka is unfurled in the open air, allowing visitors to witness this awe-inspiring sight.

Debating Monks

Sera Monastery (色拉寺) is renowned for its daily debates (辩经), which are a critical part of the educational process for monks. These debates are dynamic and filled with energy, where monks use various hand gestures and body movements to argue points and demonstrate their understanding of Buddhist philosophy. The debates are a unique and challenging aspect of Tibetan Buddhism, and visitors can observe these lively intellectual exchanges in the monastery’s debate courtyard (辩经场).

Sera Monastery may not be as large and grand as Drepung Monastery (哲蚌寺), but its debating monks and Vajra blessing ceremony are distinctly unique and provide a deep insight into the spiritual life and culture of Tibetan Buddhism.