The Naxi Ethnic Group (纳西族) is one of the most culturally distinctive ethnic minorities in Southwest China, with a population of about 323,800 (2021 census). They mainly inhabit the Hengduan Mountain region at the junction of Yunnan, Sichuan, and Tibet, with Lijiang (丽江) as the cultural and geographic core.
The Naxi people call themselves “Naxi” or “Nari,” meaning “people of the land,” reflecting their deep connection with mountains, rivers, and forests. Their language belongs to the Sino-Tibetan family, and their greatest cultural treasure is the Dongba Script (东巴文)—the only living pictographic writing system still in use today.
Naxi culture is shaped by a blend of Dongba religion (东巴教), Tibetan Buddhism, and Han Buddhism. Since migrating from the ancient Qiang groups around the 3rd century, they established a unique highland civilization centered on Dongba culture, ancient music, murals, and wooden architecture, forming one of China’s most iconic ethnic cultural landscapes.
They are often described as the “Living Fossil of Dongba Civilization” and the “Snow Mountain Cultural People.”
Population Distribution and Core Settlement Areas
The Naxi population follows a “large concentration in Lijiang, scattered expansion across the plateau” pattern. The highest density is in Yulong County (玉龙县) and Gucheng District (古城区).
Main Distribution Overview
Region
Population
Share
Cultural & Tourism Highlights
Yulong County (玉龙县)
~110,100
49.1%
Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇), Yuhu Village (玉湖村), Shitou City (石头城)
Gucheng District (古城区)
~85,000
35.3%
Lijiang Ancient City (丽江古城), Dayan Old Town
Ninglang County (宁蒗县)
~21,000
12.8%
Lugu Lake Mosuo Villages (泸沽湖摩梭村寨)
Weixi County (维西县)
~12,000
8.5%
Tibetan-Naxi mixed villages
Shangri-La (香格里拉市)
~8,000
-
Sanba Township (三坝乡), Dongba origin areas
Sichuan Muli (木里县)
~5,000
-
Eya Ancient Village (俄亚大村)
Tibet Markam (芒康县)
~2,000
-
Yanjing Valley settlements
Lijiang is not only a residential center but also the cultural heart of Dongba civilization, where traditions, rituals, and tourism coexist in daily life.
Dongba Civilization and Traditional Culture
Dongba Script and Cultural System
The Dongba Script (东巴文) is widely recognized as one of the world’s most unique writing systems. It consists of over 1,400 pictographic symbols used by Dongba priests to record rituals, myths, astronomy, medicine, and historical memory.
Unlike extinct writing systems, Dongba script is still actively used in ceremonies today. It is written on Dongba Paper (东巴纸) made from local bark, which is durable, insect-resistant, and designed for long-term preservation.
Naxi Ancient Music Tradition
Naxi Ancient Music (纳西古乐) is often described as a “sound museum of Chinese music history.” It preserves melodies from the Tang and Song dynasties, combined with local folk rhythms. The ensemble includes ancient instruments such as flutes, zithers, and percussion, performed by elderly masters who have inherited the tradition for generations.
Performances in Lijiang Old Town often take place in restored courtyards, creating an immersive historical atmosphere for visitors.
Architecture and Ancient Town Heritage
Lijiang Ancient City (丽江古城)
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lijiang Ancient City (丽江古城) is built on a complex water system fed by mountain springs. Wooden houses, stone pathways, and canals form a living urban ecosystem.
Key landmarks include Sifang Street (四方街), Mu Mansion (木府), and traditional bridges. The architecture reflects a fusion of Naxi wooden structures, Han courtyard design, and Tibetan decorative elements. At night, lantern-lit canals create a strong cultural atmosphere.
Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇)
Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇) is the earliest political and cultural center of the Naxi people. It is quieter than Lijiang Old Town and preserves a more original lifestyle.
The most important site is the Baisha Murals (白沙壁画), created during the Ming and Qing dynasties. These murals blend Tibetan Buddhism, Taoist symbolism, and Naxi religious imagery. They are considered one of the most valuable religious art collections in Southwest China.
Visitors can also experience Dongba calligraphy demonstrations and traditional courtyard life.
Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇)
Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇) is a well-preserved stop on the ancient Tea-Horse Road. It offers a quieter alternative to Lijiang, with flowing streams, stone bridges, and traditional workshops.
Travelers often explore the Tea-Horse Museum (茶马古道博物馆), handicraft studios, and local teahouses where Naxi farming culture is still visible in daily life.
Stone City Village (石头城村)
Located in Baoshan Township, Stone City Village (石头城村) is built entirely on a giant rock cliff above the Jinsha River. Houses are constructed from stone and tightly connected, forming a natural fortress.
The village has only one entrance, making it historically easy to defend. It is one of the most dramatic examples of traditional Naxi architecture.
Eya Grand Village (俄亚大村)
Located in Sichuan’s Muli County, Eya Grand Village (俄亚大村) is famous for its dense wooden architecture. Over 400 wooden households are interconnected, forming multi-level corridors and passages.
There are no formal streets—only narrow walkways between houses. It is often described as a “living architectural fossil” of ancient Naxi settlement patterns.
Marriage Traditions and Social Structure
In Lijiang regions, Naxi society follows a relatively traditional monogamous system. Marriage involves matchmaking, engagement rituals, and symbolic gifts such as tea, wine, cured meat, and silver ornaments.
Weddings include fire-crossing rituals, ancestor blessings by Dongba priests, and traditional banquet dishes. Guests often participate in singing and dancing that lasts through the night.
Mosuo Walking Marriage (走婚文化)
In the Lugu Lake area, the Mosuo subgroup preserves a matrilineal system known as “walking marriage.”
Men visit women at night and return to their maternal home in the morning. Children belong to the mother’s family, and the maternal uncle plays a central role in upbringing.
This system is globally recognized as one of the last surviving matrilineal social structures.
Intangible Cultural Heritage Systems
Dongba Script (东巴文) – still-used pictographic writing system
Naxi Ancient Music (纳西古乐) – Tang-Song musical heritage
Baisha Murals (白沙壁画) – multi-religious art fusion
Dongba Paper Making (东巴纸制作) – bark-based handmade paper
Leba Dance (勒巴舞) – ritual circle dance used in ceremonies and festivals
These traditions are not staged performances but living cultural practices still embedded in daily life.
Major Festivals and Ritual Culture
Sanduo Festival (三多节)
Held on the 8th day of the second lunar month, this is the most important Naxi festival honoring Sanduo, the protective mountain deity.
The main ceremony takes place at Sanduo Pavilion (三多阁) in Baisha. Dongba priests conduct rituals involving chanting, offerings, and animal sacrifices. Locals wear traditional costumes and gather for group dancing.
Other activities include horse racing, archery, folk singing competitions, and communal feasts featuring homemade wine and roasted pork.
Bangbang Fair (棒棒会)
Held in early spring in Lijiang Old Town, this fair marks the transition from winter to agricultural season.
Farm tools, livestock supplies, handmade crafts, and herbal medicine products are traded. Young people often use this occasion for social gatherings and singing competitions.
Street food such as chicken bean jelly, rice sausages, and Lijiang Baba is widely available.
Heaven Worship Festival (祭天节)
This is one of the oldest Dongba rituals. Villagers gather at a sacred altar to worship heaven, earth, and ancestors.
Dongba priests lead chanting ceremonies, burn incense, and offer livestock sacrifices. The ritual expresses respect for nature and ancestral continuity.
Lugu Lake Turning Mountain Festival (转山节)
Held in the Lugu Lake region, this festival is dedicated to Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山).
Participants circle the sacred mountain on foot or horseback, perform ritual dances, and sing traditional love songs. It is also a celebration of love, nature, and Mosuo cultural identity.
Belief System and Cultural Taboos
Religious Beliefs
Naxi spirituality centers on Dongba religion (东巴教), a nature-based belief system emphasizing harmony between humans and the environment.
Worship of mountain gods, river spirits, and celestial deities
Integration of Tibetan and Han Buddhist practices
Strong ancestral worship traditions
Important Taboos
Food restrictions include avoiding dog meat, horse meat, and wasted food. During festivals, vegetarian diets are preferred in ritual spaces.
Behavioral rules include avoiding stepping over fireplaces, touching sacred objects, or entering ritual spaces without permission.
Photography inside temples or sacred ceremonies requires approval from Dongba priests or monks.
Environmental taboos emphasize protection of forests, rivers, and sacred mountains.
Naxi Cuisine and Highland Food Culture
Traditional Signature Dishes
Lijiang Baba (丽江粑粑) is a layered pastry filled with sweet rose sugar or savory ham. It is a heritage food from the Tea-Horse Road era, known for its crispy texture and long storage ability.
Naxi Grilled Fish (纳西烤鱼) from Lugu Lake is charcoal-grilled and seasoned with chili and Sichuan pepper, offering a smoky and spicy flavor.
Rice Sausage (米灌肠) combines pork blood, rice, and spices, creating a soft yet rich texture, commonly served during festivals.
Lijiang Cured Pork Ribs (丽江腊排骨) are air-dried and slow-cooked in hot pot with vegetables, especially popular in winter.
Daily Local Foods
Chicken Bean Jelly (鸡豆凉粉) is a cold spicy snack with a refreshing texture, widely sold in street markets.
Lacquer Oil Tea (漆油茶) is made from roasted tea leaves and lacquer tree oil, known for its warming effect in high-altitude weather.
Naxi Clay Pot Rice (纳西砂锅饭) combines rice, cured meat, and vegetables slow-cooked in clay pots, creating a smoky aroma.
Plum Wine (梅子酒) is a low-alcohol fermented drink made from highland green plums, commonly served to guests.
Key Cultural and Natural Attractions
Lijiang Ancient City (丽江古城)
A vibrant mix of canals, night markets, and historic wooden architecture. Visitors can experience Dongba calligraphy, traditional music, and handicrafts.
Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇)
A quiet cultural center featuring murals, Dongba workshops, and snow mountain views.
Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇)
A peaceful Tea-Horse Road town with traditional workshops and rural cultural heritage.
Lugu Lake (泸沽湖)
A highland lake surrounded by Mosuo villages, famous for its crystal waters, matrilineal society, and boating culture using traditional “pig-trough boats.”
5-Day Naxi Cultural Travel Route (Refined Experience)
Day 1 focuses on Lijiang Ancient City (丽江古城), where travelers explore Mu Mansion, Sifang Street, and Dongba cultural performances inside traditional courtyards. Night walks along illuminated canals highlight the living heritage atmosphere.
Day 2 explores Baisha Ancient Town (白沙古镇) and Yuhu Village (玉湖村). Baisha offers mural heritage and Dongba demonstrations, while Yuhu Village provides stone-built homes and direct views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Day 3 continues to Shuhe Ancient Town (束河古镇) and Black Dragon Pool (黑龙潭), combining Tea-Horse Road culture with classical Naxi landscape gardens and snow mountain reflections.
Day 4 travels to Lugu Lake (泸沽湖), visiting Mosuo villages, walking marriage bridges, and lakeside viewpoints. Evening activities include Mosuo singing and traditional fire dance gatherings.
Day 5 includes a morning visit to Gemu Goddess Mountain (格姆女神山) and lake cruising before returning to Lijiang for local markets and cultural shopping.
Naxi Ethnic People and Baisha Old Town, Lijiang
Travel Tips for Lijiang and Naxi Regions
The best travel seasons are spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November), when weather is stable and visibility of snow mountains is excellent.
Transportation between Lijiang and Lugu Lake takes about 4 hours by road, with winding mountain routes. Private car or SUV travel is recommended for comfort and flexibility.
Clothing should include layered outfits due to strong temperature differences between day and night. Sun protection is essential due to high altitude UV exposure.
Respect local customs in temples and during rituals. Always ask permission before photographing religious ceremonies or elderly residents.
For accommodation, Baisha and Shuhe offer authentic cultural stays, while Lijiang Old Town provides more modern tourist facilities. Lugu Lake lakeside villages offer immersive Mosuo cultural experiences.