Between the mountains and the Shanxi River (剡溪) in Fenghua, Ningbo, lies Xikou-Tengtou Tourist Area (溪口-滕头旅游景区), a national 5A-rated tourist destination built around two distinctive themes: Republican-era history and ecological village life.
Rather than being a single attraction, the destination brings together three major areas — the Chiang Kai-shek Former Residence area, Xuedou Mountain, and Tengtou Village.
In one weekend, you can spend the morning walking through historic residences connected with Republican-era China, stand beneath one of eastern Zhejiang’s most spectacular waterfalls in the afternoon, and finish the day in a village recognized internationally for its ecological development, where white pigeons fly over fields and gardens.
One journey, three very different sides of China: the weight of modern history, the serenity of sacred mountains, and the lightness of rural life.
Chiang Family Former Residence: Step into Republican-Era History Beside the Shanxi River
Xikou Ancient Town (溪口古镇) is the cultural starting point of the entire destination.
Along Wuling Road, which follows the Shanxi River, traditional gray-tiled buildings and whitewashed walls preserve the history of the Chiang family and their hometown.
Enter through Wuling Gate (武岭门), where the imposing gate tower rises above the old town and the Shanxi River flows quietly below. It is a natural starting point for exploring Xikou.
Continue into the town and you will find Wenchang Pavilion (文昌阁), once used as a villa by Chiang Kai-shek and Soong Mei-ling when they returned to their hometown. The second floor still preserves period furnishings, while the river flows quietly just beyond the windows.
Nearby, the Little Western-style Villa (小洋房) was once the residence of Chiang Ching-kuo after his return from the Soviet Union. The three-story Western-style building retains its historic study and bedroom, while the Shanxi River can still be seen from the windows.
The heart of the old town is Fenghao House (丰镐房), the ancestral home of the Chiang family and the place where Chiang Kai-shek was born and grew up.
Two osmanthus trees in the courtyard were planted by Soong Mei-ling. On the wall of the rear hall is a stone inscription bearing the four characters “Blood for Blood” (以血洗血), handwritten by Chiang Ching-kuo after his mother, Mao Fumei, was killed during a Japanese air raid. He reportedly returned to Xikou and wrote the words while kneeling before her memorial.
Standing before the inscription, it is difficult not to pause.
Just a short walk away is Yutai Salt Shop (玉泰盐铺), where Chiang Kai-shek was born. It was once an ordinary salt shop — modest and unremarkable compared with the grand residences surrounding it.
Yet from this ordinary building emerged one of the most consequential figures in China's modern history.
Allow around 2–3 hours to walk through the key sites of the old town.
In the evening, when lanterns begin to glow and the traditional residences are reflected in the Shanxi River, Xikou becomes particularly atmospheric.
Xuedou Mountain: Buddhist Heritage, a 186-Meter Waterfall and a Cliffside Retreat
From Xikou Ancient Town, take the scenic-area bus into the mountains and enter the natural world of Xuedou Mountain (雪窦山).
Xuedou Mountain is regarded as one of China’s five great Buddhist mountains and is widely recognized as an important Maitreya Buddhist sanctuary. Xuedou Temple (雪窦寺) has a history stretching back to the Tang Dynasty and was once known as a major Buddhist monastery welcoming monks from across China.
The most dramatic natural attraction is Qianzhangyan Waterfall (千丈岩瀑布).
With a drop of around 186 meters, it is known as the “First Waterfall in Eastern Zhejiang.”
From the viewing platform, the waterfall plunges from the cliff above like a long white ribbon. On sunny days, sunlight catches the mist and often creates a rainbow.
Stand near the base and the spray can quickly cover your face — a refreshing experience on a summer day.
Above the valley is Miaogaotai (妙高台), a dramatic cliffside viewpoint overlooking the surrounding mountains and Xikou town.
The site was one of Chiang Kai-shek’s favorite retreats when he returned to Xikou. Before leaving Xikou for the final time in 1949, he reportedly spent one last night here.
The bedroom has been preserved with its historic furnishings, including books left open on the desk, creating a particularly striking connection with the past.
Three Hidden Pools: A Refreshing Mountain Walk
Three Hidden Pools (三隐潭) is one of the best sections of Xuedou Mountain for a relatively gentle hike.
Three waterfalls — the upper, middle, and lower falls — are connected by approximately 3 kilometers of mountain paths and walkways. The route passes through bamboo forests, across suspension bridges, and beside clear pools.
The walk takes around 1.5 hours and is relatively gentle, making it one of the more comfortable ways to experience the mountain landscape.
The trail eventually leads toward Xuedou Temple, where a 56.74-meter outdoor bronze Maitreya Buddha stands in front of the temple.
It is regarded as the world’s tallest seated bronze Maitreya statue. Visitors can walk up to the Buddha’s feet and take part in the traditional custom of “touching the Buddha’s feet” for good luck and blessings.
Nearby stands a small villa associated with Zhang Xueliang, which is recognized as the location of his first period of confinement in Xikou.
The mountain requires visitors to transfer to the official scenic-area buses at the visitor center. The transportation ticket costs around RMB 30 and allows passengers to travel between major transfer points such as Xuedou Temple, Three Hidden Pools, and Xufu Rock.
After rain, when clouds drift through the forests and the waterfalls are swollen with fresh water, Xuedou Mountain is often at its most beautiful.
Tengtou Village: An Ecological Village That Turned the Countryside into a Living Attraction
On the way back toward Ningbo, Tengtou Village (滕头村) makes a relaxed final stop.
The village has received more than 70 awards and honors, including recognition among the Global Top 500 Ecological Sites and the World’s Top Ten Harmonious Villages.
In 2010, it was also the only village selected to participate in the Shanghai World Expo’s Urban Best Practices Area.
There is no traditional boundary separating the village from the attraction.
The village itself is the scenic area.
At White Pigeon Square, flocks of pigeons sweep across the rooftops. The 1-kilometer Green Corridor contains more than 200 species of climbing plants, while koi glide through the clear waterways of Thousand-Fish Park.
Ningxiang Residence (凝香居) is a late Qing and early Republican-era house with well-preserved wood carvings.
At the Fengbang Stone Window Museum (奉帮石窗馆), more than 600 stone windows from the Ming and Qing dynasties are displayed, each featuring its own intricate carving.
Tengtou is also an excellent destination for families with children.
Young visitors can feed alpacas, operate traditional waterwheels, or make rice cakes. Tengtou Debao Park offers outdoor activities such as a quantum rope-net course, high-altitude rock climbing, and mountain biking, combining nature exploration with rural fun.
Admission to Tengtou Village is free, and a relaxed visit takes around 3 hours.
After the historical sites and mountain landscapes of Xikou and Xuedou Mountain, Tengtou provides an easygoing ending to the journey.
Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit
Spring and summer, especially April–September, are ideal for experiencing Xuedou Mountain when the waterfalls are at their strongest.
Autumn, particularly October–November, brings colorful foliage to the Siming Mountain area and is a good season for panoramic mountain views.
The destination can be visited year-round, but Xuedou Mountain is particularly atmospheric after rain, when mist fills the valleys and the waterfalls carry more water.
For a more comfortable experience, try to enter the scenic area before 8:30 in the morning to avoid the busiest periods.
Opening Hours
- Xuedou Mountain: 8:00–16:30 in summer; 8:30–16:00 in winter
- Chiang Family Former Residence Area: 8:00–17:30 in summer; 8:30–17:00 in winter
- Tengtou Village: 8:00–17:00
How Long to Spend
Allow 1–2 days.
A two-day trip is recommended if you want to explore both the Chiang family residences and Xuedou Mountain without rushing.
For a one-day visit, a classic combination is Xuedou Mountain in the morning followed by Xikou Ancient Town in the afternoon.
How to Get There
By Bus
From the South Square of Ningbo Railway Station, take Bus 988 directly to the Xikou-Tengtou Tourist Center.
The journey takes around 1 hour, with fares of approximately RMB 2–5 depending on the section. Buses generally run every 15–22 minutes.
By High-Speed Rail
Take a high-speed train to Fenghua Railway Station, then transfer to Bus 230, which runs to the Xikou-Tengtou Tourist Center.
By Car
From Ningbo, take the Yongjin Expressway and exit at Xikou East. The drive takes around 40 minutes.
From Hangzhou, allow around 2 hours, depending on traffic.
Navigate to Xikou-Tengtou Tourist Area Visitor Center.
Transportation Inside the Scenic Area
Xuedou Mountain requires visitors to transfer to the official sightseeing buses at the visitor center.
The transportation ticket costs around RMB 30 per person and allows multiple rides between the main stops.
Recommended One-Day Route
Morning:
Visitor Center → scenic bus to Xuedou Mountain → Three Hidden Pools (about 1.5 hours) → Qianzhangyan Waterfall → Miaogaotai → Xuedou Temple → return by scenic bus
Afternoon:
Wuling Gate → Wenchang Pavilion → Little Western-style Villa → Fenghao House → Yutai Salt Shop → walk along the Shanxi River through Xikou Ancient Town
Allow approximately 2–3 hours for the old town.
Evening:
If time allows, stop at Tengtou Village on the way back and take a relaxed walk around White Pigeon Square and the Green Corridor.
Photography Tips
Miaogaotai offers one of the best elevated views over Xuedou Mountain and Xikou town. The dramatic cliffside platform creates particularly impressive wide-angle compositions.
At Qianzhangyan Waterfall, use a slower shutter speed to capture the waterfall with a soft, silky appearance.
At Wuling Gate, frame the historic gate tower together with the Shanxi River. The scene becomes especially atmospheric when the lanterns are lit in the evening.
At White Pigeon Square in Tengtou Village, keep your camera ready for the moment pigeons sweep across the traditional rooftops.
For clothing, simple colors, modern Chinese-style outfits, or Republican-era-inspired clothing work particularly well with the historic architecture and mountain scenery.
Practical Tips
- The scenic buses on Xuedou Mountain travel through numerous mountain bends. If you are prone to motion sickness, bring appropriate medication.
- The scenic-area sightseeing train is currently suspended. Travel between Three Hidden Pools and Qianzhangyan according to the current on-site shuttle arrangements. The cable car remains in operation.
- Mountain temperatures can be around 3–5°C lower than in the town, so bring a light jacket.
- Some activities in Tengtou Village require separate payment, so choose according to your interests.
Explore More Around Xikou and Tengtou
The three main areas already form a full itinerary, but the surrounding region offers several additional attractions.
Sword Pond (剑池) is associated with the legendary story of the swordsmiths Gan Jiang and Mo Ye. Its four-tiered waterfalls and mountain scenery are especially refreshing, although reaching the main area requires climbing around 500 steps. Visitors with knee problems should take this into consideration.
Wuling Village (武陵村) preserves a collection of Republican-era villas. Songyue Villa (松月庐) was once associated with Chiang Kai-shek, while higher viewpoints overlook vast areas of bamboo forest.
For sunrise, clouds, and panoramic views, Xuguang Terrace (旭光台) is one of the best viewpoints. At sunset, the bamboo-covered mountains can take on a warm golden color.
After descending from the mountains, spend some time at Yucun Cultural Market (庾村文化市集).
Its tree-lined streets, Republican-era clock tower, old railway-station cafés, creative shops, and retro coffee houses offer a more relaxed side of Mount Xikou.
The area is free to explore and makes a pleasant place to stop before continuing your journey.
If you have additional time, Dadouwu Reservoir (大斗坞水库) is another worthwhile detour. Its clear green water has earned it the nickname “Little Jiuzhaigou of Mount Mogan,” and the reservoir is also free to visit.
Why Visit Xikou-Tengtou?
From the century-old silence beneath the osmanthus trees at Fenghao House to the roar of Qianzhangyan Waterfall crashing into the valley; from the empty bedroom and open book at Miaogaotai to white pigeons flying above the fields of Tengtou Village — Xikou-Tengtou connects three very different experiences along a single travel route.
Here, Republican-era history, the spiritual landscape of eastern Zhejiang, and the ideals of ecological rural living come together in one destination.
You do not have to choose between history and nature.
In a single day, you can walk through a historic town, climb a sacred mountain, stand beneath a spectacular waterfall, and finish among gardens and farmland.
If you are looking for a destination in Zhejiang where modern Chinese history, Buddhist heritage, mountain scenery, and rural life can all be experienced in one journey, Xikou-Tengtou is an excellent choice.
Here, the mountain is a sanctuary of Maitreya, the town is a living chapter of modern history, and the village offers a glimpse of China’s ecological countryside — all meeting along the same road.