Xidi Ancient Village: A Living Huizhou Village in a Chinese “Peach Blossom Spring”
Hidden among the mountains of Yi County, at the southern foot of Huangshan Mountain, Xidi Ancient Village (西递古村落) is a historic Huizhou settlement shaped like a traditional boat.
First established during the Northern Song Dynasty, more than 900 years ago, Xidi was built around the Hu family clan and developed into one of the best-preserved ancient villages in southern Anhui. It has long been known as “a village in a Peach Blossom Spring,” a poetic expression for a peaceful place seemingly removed from the outside world.
In 2000, Xidi and nearby Hongcun were jointly inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 2021, Xidi was also included among the first group of villages recognized by the United Nations as Best Tourism Villages.
If you want to experience a genuinely living ancient village during your journey through southern Anhui, Xidi is an excellent place to slow down. Walk along its narrow stone-paved lanes, look closely at the intricate details of traditional Huizhou architecture, and discover the stories hidden behind its ancestral halls, carved windows and family mottos.
A Stone Archway That Tells the Story of a Village
The first landmark most visitors encounter is the impressive Hu Wenguang Governor Memorial Archway (胡文光刺史牌坊).
Built during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, this stone archway was constructed from locally sourced Yixian Bluestone and is the symbolic gateway to Xidi.
It is the village's only surviving archway commemorating an official achievement and features a five-level pavilion-style design. Each level is decorated with elaborate stone carvings, while the carved crouching lions at the base are particularly expressive.
After rain or in the early morning, the archway can be reflected almost perfectly in the nearby pond, making it one of the most attractive photography spots in Xidi.
Just beyond the archway lies Mingjing Lake, whose calm waters reflect the surrounding traditional buildings.
Follow the lakeside path and pass through the old gateways, and the village gradually unfolds. Historic residences such as Kuanggu Studio and Ruiyu Residence appear one after another.
Xidi preserves 155 Ming and Qing Dynasty residences and three ancestral halls. Because of its carefully planned layout, sophisticated architecture and elaborate decoration, the village has often been described by architectural experts as a “Museum of Ming and Qing Residential Architecture in China.”
Huizhou's Three Traditional Carvings
The beauty of Xidi does not necessarily reveal itself at first glance.
Instead, it appears in the details — above your head, beside a doorway, beneath a roof or inside a courtyard.
Traditional Huizhou “Three Carvings” — wood carving, brick carving and stone carving — are among the defining features of Huizhou architecture. Craftsmen transformed everyday objects, plants, animals and landscapes into highly detailed decorative works while maintaining a refined balance between simplicity and ornamentation.
Two of the finest examples can be found in the West Garden and East Garden, a pair of Qing Dynasty residences.
West Garden
West Garden is considered an outstanding example of traditional Huizhou garden architecture.
Its walls contain double-sided stone-carved lattice windows decorated with pine-and-rock and bamboo-and-plum motifs. The patterns on both sides of the stone panels match with remarkable precision.
This technique, known as “the same craftsmanship on both sides,” is considered one of the remarkable achievements of traditional Huizhou stone carving.
East Garden
Just one lane away, East Garden offers a different collection of symbolic details.
A fan-shaped lattice window above the entrance represents the idea of “looking up and seeing goodness.”
A leaf-shaped stone carving on the gable wall expresses the traditional idea that even the tallest tree ultimately returns its leaves to the roots.
The ice-crack pattern carved into the study door symbolizes the hope that younger members of the family would study diligently through difficult times and eventually become pillars of society.
As you walk through Xidi, courtyards, skylights, carved windows and dark-tiled roofs reveal the ingenuity of traditional construction, while plaques, inscriptions and decorative motifs preserve lessons about family, education and proper conduct.
Jing'ai Hall and the Meaning of “Take One Step Back”
Jing'ai Hall (敬爱堂) is the largest ancestral hall in Xidi.
Inside the main hall hangs a large calligraphic character “孝” (filial piety) traditionally attributed to the famous Song Dynasty philosopher Zhu Xi.
From a distance, the character appears to depict a person respectfully bowing. Look more closely, however, and you may notice additional symbolic details hidden within the structure of the character.
This is one of the moments when a local guide can make a major difference. Without an explanation, you may simply see an impressive piece of calligraphy; with the story behind it, the ancestral hall becomes a window into traditional Chinese family values.
Another of Xidi's most memorable stories can be found at the corner of Dafu Residence.
When Hu Wenzhao renovated his ancestral home, he deliberately modified the corner facing the street. Instead of occupying every available inch of land, he rounded back the wall and moved the upper structure about half a meter inward, leaving more room for people carrying goods or pushing carts through the lane.
He then added the inscription:
“Take One Step Back and Think.”
The idea of stepping back has since become one of the most recognizable expressions of Xidi's traditional family culture — a small architectural gesture representing consideration for others.
Xidi Ancient Village Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit
Xidi can be visited throughout the year, with each season offering a different atmosphere.
- March–April: Rapeseed flowers surround the white walls and dark roofs, creating one of the most picturesque landscapes in southern Anhui.
- October–November: Clear autumn skies and colorful foliage make this another excellent season for photography.
- 7:00–8:30 AM: The village is generally quieter, and morning mist and soft light create beautiful shadows around the traditional horse-head walls.
- After 4:30 PM: The warm evening light gradually reaches the old walls, and once the lanterns are lit, Xidi becomes especially atmospheric.
Opening Hours
The scenic area is generally open throughout the day.
Indoor attractions such as historic residences and ancestral halls are generally open from:
07:30–17:00
The last admission to indoor attractions is at 17:00.
Evening lighting activities are available from approximately 19:00–21:00, when lanterns illuminate the old stone lanes.
How Long to Stay
You can cover the main highlights in about 3 hours, but staying one night is highly recommended.
Xidi feels completely different in the early morning and evening, when the main daytime crowds have left and the village returns to a much quieter rhythm.
How to Get to Xidi
By High-Speed Train
Take a high-speed train to Yixian East Railway Station.
From the station, buses No. 2, 7 or 10 run toward Xidi.
- Fare: approximately RMB 3
- Travel time: around 20–30 minutes
From Huangshan North Railway Station, you can also take a tourist shuttle bus to Xidi, with the journey taking approximately 1 hour.
By Car
Navigate to the Xidi Scenic Area Tourist Center.
There is ample parking near the entrance. After parking, visitors can walk into the historic village.
Recommended Xidi Walking Route
A convenient route through the village is:
South Gate → Hu Wenguang Archway → Zoumalou → Kuanggu Studio → Ruiyu Residence → West Garden / East Garden → Taoli Garden → Jing'ai Hall → Zhumutang → Dafu Residence → Huiyuan Bridge → Back Mountain Viewing Platform → Mingjing Lake
The route is approximately 3 kilometers and is designed as a loop, so you do not need to retrace your steps.
The Back Mountain Viewing Platform is particularly worthwhile because it offers a broad view of the entire boat-shaped village, including its distinctive collection of white walls, dark roofs and horse-head gables.
Photography Tips
For the classic Xidi photograph, visit the Hu Wenguang Archway in the early morning, when soft backlighting and the surrounding fields create a particularly atmospheric scene.
The Back Mountain Viewing Platform is the place to photograph the entire village. Sunset is especially attractive as the warm light falls across the rooftops.
For architectural detail photography, look for the double-sided carved stone windows in West Garden and the fan-shaped lattice window in East Garden.
Simple, neutral-colored clothing also works particularly well against the restrained tones of traditional Huizhou architecture.
A Few Practical Tips
The stone-paved lanes can become slippery, especially after rain, and moss is common.
Wear comfortable flat shoes with good grip. High heels are impractical, while wheeled luggage can be extremely difficult to pull through the narrow lanes.
One of the best things you can do when arriving is to arrange a free guided tour at the visitor center, which is included with admission.
Without a guide, you may see a collection of beautiful white walls and old houses.
With a guide, however, the couplets, plaques, carved doorways and decorative motifs suddenly become stories about family history, education, social values and traditional Chinese culture.
Explore More Around Xidi
Hongcun Ancient Village
Hongcun (宏村) is only about 20 minutes by car from Xidi.
While Hongcun is particularly famous for its water landscapes, including Moon Pond and South Lake, Xidi offers a stronger focus on residential architecture, ancestral halls and intricate decorative details.
Visiting both provides an interesting comparison between two of southern Anhui's most famous ancient villages.
Bishan Village
For a more artistic and contemporary atmosphere, head to Bishan Village (碧山村).
Bishan Bookstore occupies a former century-old ancestral hall, combining traditional architecture with books, coffee and contemporary cultural activities.
Surrounded by open rice fields and mountain scenery, Bishan has become a popular destination for travelers looking for a slower and more creative side of rural Anhui.
Nanping Ancient Village
Nanping Ancient Village (南屏古村) is famous for its maze-like network of 72 lanes and its traditional Huizhou residences.
The village has also been used as a filming location for movies including Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and Ju Dou.
While exploring, look out for the village's traditional Qiyue rice wine, a local specialty worth trying.
What to Eat in Xidi
Food is an essential part of experiencing Huizhou culture.
Stinky Mandarin Fish (臭鳜鱼) may have a strong fermented aroma, but the fish itself is firm, tender and deeply savory.
Fermented Tofu (毛豆腐) is crisp on the outside and soft inside, and is often served with chili sauce.
Other local favorites include Braised Pork with Dried Bamboo Shoots and Stone Ear Mushroom with Free-Range Chicken, both representative of the hearty home-style cooking of the mountain villages.
For a more authentic experience, consider eating at a small local family restaurant tucked inside the lanes rather than choosing one of the more heavily promoted restaurants on the main street.
A meal featuring stinky mandarin fish and fermented tofu can cost around RMB 60 per person, depending on the restaurant and dishes ordered.
Drive the Beautiful S218 Scenic Route
If you have extra time and are traveling by car, consider driving part of the S218 Scenic Route.
The road stretches for approximately 78 kilometers, running from Gantang Town in Huangshan District in the north to Yuting Town in Yi County in the south.
Along the way, it connects the landscapes around Huangshan, Hongcun and Xidi, while mountain ridges, streams and rural scenery turn the drive itself into part of the journey.
It is an excellent option for travelers who want to experience southern Anhui beyond its most famous attractions.
Xidi: A 900-Year-Old Huizhou Family Story
From the moment the Hu family chose this peaceful valley as a place to settle during the Northern Song Dynasty to its recognition as a UN Best Tourism Village, Xidi has preserved an extraordinary sense of continuity.
The imposing Hu Wenguang Archway tells stories of status and achievement. The ancestral halls preserve family traditions. The intricate Three Carvings reveal the craftsmanship of Huizhou artisans. And the simple inscription “Take One Step Back and Think” expresses a tradition of consideration that remains memorable even centuries later.
Xidi may be quieter than Hongcun, but that is part of its charm.
It is not a village that demands to be photographed at every turn. Instead, it rewards travelers who slow down, look closely and allow the details to reveal themselves.
Walk around a corner on an old stone lane, pause beneath a carved window, and you may find yourself quietly encountering 900 years of Huizhou history.