Ming and Qing Street, Pingyao: 400 Meters of Stone Paving and Half a Millennium of Shanxi’s Commercial History
At the heart of Pingyao Ancient City, a 400-meter-long stone-paved street runs along the city’s central axis, stretching from the junction with the East-West Main Street in the north to the Great East Gate in the south. Lining both sides are 78 surviving shops and historic buildings in the style of the Ming and Qing dynasties, with old wooden signs, colorful shop banners, gray-tiled roofs, and weathered brick walls creating an atmosphere that feels wonderfully untouched by time.
This is Ming and Qing Street, better known locally as South Street (Nandajie)—one of the most famous historic streets in Pingyao and one of the earliest streets recognized as a “China Historic and Cultural Street.” It has also earned the nickname “China’s Wall Street” because of its deep connection with the rise of Shanxi merchants and the financial institutions that once operated here.
If you only have time to explore one street in Pingyao, make it this one.
Ming and Qing Street is far more than a commercial street. It is the beating heart of Pingyao Ancient City—the place where its architecture, commerce, daily life, and merchant culture all come together.
The Central Axis of Pingyao’s “Turtle City”
The layout of Pingyao Ancient City resembles a giant turtle, an auspicious symbol in traditional Chinese culture. The south gate forms the turtle’s head, the north gate its tail, and the four gates on the east and west sides represent its feet. Running straight across its back is Ming and Qing Street—the city’s central north-south axis.
Enter through the South Gate, also known as Yingxun Gate, and you immediately find yourself on a lively historic street lined with shops and traditional buildings. The street is relatively narrow, but its original architectural character remains remarkably intact.
The basic layout of the street had already taken shape by the middle of the Ming Dynasty. Over the centuries, its buildings and street pattern survived largely unchanged, preserving a vivid picture of a traditional northern Chinese commercial town.
Old restaurants and inns recall the everyday life of merchants and travelers. Former banks, exchange houses, and escort agencies tell another story—the story of Shanxi merchants and the financial network that once stretched across China.
Seen from above, Pingyao’s streets form a distinctive network of four main streets, eight smaller streets, and 72 winding lanes, creating a pattern often described as resembling the Chinese character “土” (“earth”). Ming and Qing Street forms the central vertical line of this layout.
In traditional Chinese geomancy, earth occupies the center, making the location of South Street particularly significant within the ancient city’s overall design.
City Tower: The Heart of the Street
Walking along Ming and Qing Street, it is almost impossible to rush.
There is simply too much to look at.
On one side, you may find Pingyao’s famous polished lacquerware. On another, the aroma of Pingyao beef drifts out from an old shop. Colorful paper-cutting, traditional handicrafts, old signs, and timeworn storefronts constantly compete for your attention.
But the buildings themselves are perhaps the greatest attraction.
Many shops follow the traditional “shop in front, residence behind” layout. Some form compact two-courtyard compounds, while others extend into deeper three-courtyard residences. These northern Chinese courtyard houses feature gray bricks, tiled roofs, carved wooden storefronts, decorative couplets, weathered wooden signs, and colorful shop banners.
Every few steps reveals another architectural detail.
And standing at the center of the street is the building that gives the entire avenue its visual focus: the City Tower (Shilou).
This three-tiered wooden structure rises 18.5 meters above the street and is topped with distinctive yellow and green glazed tiles. It is the only tall pavilion-style building within Pingyao Ancient City and has long served as one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks.
The tower straddles the street, allowing pedestrians to pass directly beneath it. Looking upward from below, the old wooden structure frames the sky above the busy street; looking down from the tower, the historic city unfolds in every direction.
The City Tower is also traditionally known as Jinjing Tower, or “Golden Well Tower,” because of a local legend that the water from a well beneath it once appeared golden.
Climb up and look down over Ming and Qing Street, and you will see weathered Ming and Qing buildings, old-established shops, tiled rooftops, red lanterns, and visitors from around the world moving through the ancient city.
This is the moment when the expression “one glance across a thousand years” begins to make sense.
One Street, Almost Every Trade of the Ming and Qing Era
The most fascinating thing about Ming and Qing Street is just how much of traditional commerce was concentrated into such a short stretch.
Along its 400 meters are 78 surviving historic shops built around the traditional “shop in front, living quarters behind” arrangement. Historically, the street accommodated an astonishing variety of businesses: exchange houses, money shops, pawnshops, pharmacies, butcher shops, tobacco stores, general stores, silk shops, inns, restaurants, and more.
For visitors today, it is easy to see Ming and Qing Street as a picturesque shopping street.
But historically, it was something much more important.
During the Qing Dynasty, Pingyao became one of the most important financial centers associated with Shanxi merchants, and its exchange houses helped create a nationwide network for transferring money. This financial legacy is the reason Pingyao is often compared with Wall Street.
Two places are particularly worth visiting.
Xietongqing Exchange House
Located beside the City Tower, Xietongqing Exchange House was one of the largest financial compounds in Pingyao.
Its underground treasury is one of the most intriguing places to explore. A network of underground passages leads deep beneath the compound, where visitors can see the elaborate facilities once used to store and protect silver.
One of the most memorable features is a legendary gold-plated “treasury-protecting pillar” hidden at the end of the passage.
For photographers, there is another reason to stop here. From the steps of Xietongqing, look upward toward the City Tower and you can frame its golden roof together with the red lanterns—a classic composition for photographing Ming and Qing Street.
Rishengchang Exchange House
Although the entrance to Rishengchang Exchange House is on West Street, its story is inseparable from Ming and Qing Street and the commercial world of Pingyao.
Founded in 1823, Rishengchang is widely regarded as China’s first private exchange house specializing in long-distance remittance, helping merchants transfer money between different cities without physically transporting large quantities of silver.
At its peak, the institution reportedly handled annual remittances totaling 38 million taels of silver, with branches and business connections extending to more than 30 major cities across China.
Its famous reputation was captured in the phrase “Huitong Tianxia” (“Remitting Across the Empire”).
After walking through Ming and Qing Street, visiting Rishengchang gives the nickname “China’s Wall Street” a much deeper meaning.
The old storefronts are not simply decorative scenery. They are the remains of a commercial system that once connected merchants, cities, and fortunes across the country.
Travel Tips for Ming and Qing Street
Best Time to Visit
Spring and autumn—especially April to May and September to October— offer the most comfortable weather for walking around Pingyao Ancient City.
For photography, two periods are particularly attractive:
- 7:00–8:00 a.m. — soft morning light, fewer visitors, and a quieter atmosphere before the street becomes busy.
- 5:00–7:00 p.m. — warm evening light gradually gives way to illuminated red lanterns, creating a completely different atmosphere.
If possible, arrive in the late afternoon and stay until after sunset. Ming and Qing Street changes dramatically once the lanterns come on.
Opening Hours and Tickets
Ming and Qing Street itself is open throughout the day and free to walk along.
Many of the historic attractions along the street, including Xietongqing and traditional escort agencies, are included in the Pingyao Ancient City sightseeing pass, which is valid for three days. This makes it easy to explore the historic sites at a relaxed pace rather than trying to see everything in one afternoon.
How Long to Spend
Allow around 1–2 hours to walk through the main section of the street.
If you plan to enter Xietongqing, visit former escort agencies, explore museums, and stop for food or shopping, half a day is more comfortable.
Ideally, experience the street both during the day and after dark:
- Daytime: best for architecture, shopfronts, handicrafts, and details.
- Evening: best for red lanterns, atmospheric alleys, and photography.
The best approach is to arrive before sunset and stay until the street lights up.
Location and Transportation
Ming and Qing Street is essentially South Street (Nandajie), the central north-south thoroughfare of Pingyao Ancient City.
Enter through Yingxun Gate (South Gate) and simply walk north along the main street.
If arriving by high-speed train, take a train to Pingyao Ancient City Railway Station, then take local bus Route 108 toward the ancient city.
If arriving by conventional train, get off at Pingyao Railway Station, which is within walking distance of the ancient city.
Motor vehicles are restricted inside the historic area, so walking is by far the best way to explore Pingyao.
Photography Tips
For the classic Ming and Qing Street shot, stand near one end of the street and photograph along its central axis. The stone paving disappearing into the distance, framed by layers of traditional shop signs and gray-brick buildings, creates a strong sense of depth.
For the City Tower, try photographing upward from the steps of Xietongqing to capture the tower’s golden roof and red lanterns in the same frame.
You can also walk behind the tower into the smaller lanes and use a wide-angle lens to capture the entire structure.
If you enjoy traditional Chinese photography, Hanfu or simple, solid-colored clothing works particularly well against the gray brick, wooden storefronts, and red lanterns.
What to Wear
The ancient city is covered with uneven stone paving, so comfortable walking shoes or sneakers are essential.
Dragging a suitcase over the old stone streets can be surprisingly difficult.
If you plan to stay out after sunset, bring a light jacket, as the narrow lanes can feel noticeably cooler once night falls.
A Classic One-Day Walk Through Pingyao
Ming and Qing Street forms the backbone of a classic walking route through Pingyao Ancient City.
A good one-day itinerary is:
South Gate (Yingxun Gate) → climb the Ancient City Wall for a panoramic view → descend and enter Ming and Qing Street → visit the City Tower, Xietongqing, and traditional escort agencies → turn onto West Street to explore Rishengchang and Weitaihou → continue toward East Street to see the North China First Escort Agency and Huiwulin Martial Arts Museum → return to Ming and Qing Street around sunset → sit down at a traditional restaurant as the lanterns begin to glow → stroll slowly back toward the South Gate after dark.
This route allows you to experience Pingyao not as a collection of isolated attractions, but as a connected historic city.
And don't limit yourself to the main street when it comes to food.
Some of the more interesting local restaurants are hidden in the smaller lanes away from the busiest tourist areas.
Try Pingyao beef, one of the city's signature flavors, or wan tuo, a cool and refreshing local snack served with vinegar and chili oil. Youmian kaolao lao, a traditional Shanxi oat-flour dish, is hearty and filling, while beef braised with aged Shanxi vinegar combines the region's famous vinegar with tender beef.
For a more substantial Shanxi-style meal, consider Tianyankui Restaurant, a long-established restaurant on South Street dating back to 1791, during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty.
Its signature “Dragon Eggplant” (Changlong Qiezi) is shaped like a reclining dragon, with a crisp exterior and soft, tender interior, and has become a memorable dish for many visitors to Pingyao.
Four Hundred Meters Through Six Centuries
Ming and Qing Street is more than an old street.
It is a condensed history of Pingyao itself.
The City Tower is its visual heart.
The exchange houses are its financial bloodstream.
The escort agencies are its protective backbone.
And the little restaurants and shops filled with the aromas of aged vinegar and Pingyao beef are its everyday soul.
Walk along the 400 meters of stone paving and you are not simply passing from one attraction to another. You are moving through the commercial world that once made Shanxi merchants famous across China.
If you want to understand the soul of Pingyao, start here.
Enter through the South Gate. Walk north. Explore the old shops, exchange houses, and courtyards. Then stay until the lanterns begin to glow.
Four hundred meters is all it takes to walk through six centuries of history.