Longyang Lake in Gonghe County, Hainan

 Longyang Lake: The Pearl of the Yellow River – Qinghai's Vast Blue Water Wonderland

Imagine a body of water so vast, so impossibly blue, that it feels like you've stumbled upon an inland sea nestled within the dramatic, arid mountains of the Tibetan Plateau. This is Longyang Lake (龙羊湖), the massive reservoir formed by the legendary Longyangxia Dam—the "First Dam of the Yellow River." Located in Gonghe County, about an hour and a half from the more famous Qinghai Lake, this hidden gem offers a different kind of beauty. Here, the Yellow River, often associated with muddy floods, runs crystal clear and deep sapphire, carving its way through dramatic, multicolored canyons. Whether you are cruising on its placid waters, hiking the lunarlike landscapes of the surrounding earth forests, or marveling at the sheer scale of the dam, Longyang Lake is a destination that combines human engineering genius with the raw, untamed beauty of nature.

  The "First Dam of the Yellow River": A Monument to Modern China

Your journey to Longyang Lake begins with understanding its centerpiece: the Longyangxia Dam. Completed in 1992 after over a decade of construction, this gravity dam stands as a titan of engineering. Stretching nearly 1,200 meters across and towering 178 meters high, it was the largest dam on the Yellow River when it was built and remains one of the most important hydroelectric power stations in China.

Standing on the dam's crest, with the vast reservoir stretching endlessly to the west and the river canyon plunging dramatically to the east, you feel the sheer power of human ambition. The scale is humbling. For visitors interested in modern Chinese history and industrial tourism, a visit to the dam's observation points and small exhibition hall provides a fascinating look at how this remote region was transformed to power the nation's development.

  The Lake Itself: An Inland Sea of Liquid Sapphire

The dam created Longyang Lake, a reservoir that stretches back for nearly 40 kilometers, covering an area of 380 square kilometers. Its most stunning feature is the color of its water. Because the dam traps sediment, the famously siltladen Yellow River is here transformed into a pristine, deep turquoise blue.

From the water, the surrounding landscape is a panorama of geological drama. The lake is cupped by the harsh, arid mountains of the Loess Plateau, their slopes carved by erosion into fantastical shapes. The contrast is breathtaking: the serene, cool blue of the water against the warm, dusty ochre and red of the hills.

Boat Tours: The best way to experience the lake is by boat. Tour operators offer cruises ranging from onehour jaunts to longer expeditions deeper into the canyon. You'll glide past hidden bays, towering cliffs, and perhaps spot local fishermen in small skiffs, their presence a reminder of the communities that were relocated when the valley was flooded.

Longyangxia Earth Forest: A Walk on an Alien Planet

A short drive from the lake's edge lies one of the region's most surreal attractions: the Longyangxia Earth Forest. This isn't a forest of trees, but a forest of rock. Centuries of wind and rain have sculpted the soft, sedimentary soil of the plateau into a labyrinth of towering pillars, deep gullies, and otherworldly formations.

The colors here are mesmerizing—layers of rusty red, dusty gold, and pale gray create striations that look like the rings of a giant tree, telling a story of millennia of geological time. Walking through the earth forest feels less like exploring Qinghai and more like traversing the surface of Mars. It's a photographer's paradise, especially in the late afternoon when the low sun casts long shadows and saturates the colors of the rock.

The Yellow River: Blue, Wild, and Untamed

Seeing the Yellow River at Longyang Lake is a transformative experience. For many, the river is synonymous with the thick, yellow silt that gives it its name. But here, in its upper reaches, it is a different entity entirely—a wild, clear, and powerful mountain stream.

Standing at the lookout points where the river leaves the lake and enters the canyon below the dam, you can watch its color begin to change as it picks up speed and sediment. But in the reservoir itself, it is pure and blue, offering a perspective on China's "Mother River" that few travelers ever witness. The surrounding cliffs, some reaching 700 meters high, amplify the sense of being in a sacred, primeval landscape.

  Activities: Fishing, Hiking, and Stargazing

Beyond the major sights, Longyang Lake offers a peaceful retreat for outdoor enthusiasts.

Fishing: The lake is stocked with a variety of fish, including carp and the locally famous Yellow River naked carp (though regulations on catching this protected species are strict). Anglers will find the calm waters a perfect spot to cast a line.

Hiking: The hills around the lake and the earth forest offer numerous opportunities for hiking. There are no marked trails, so hiring a local guide is recommended to safely explore the backcountry.

Photography & Stargazing: With minimal light pollution, the skies over Longyang Lake are incredibly dark. On a cloudless night, the Milky Way arches overhead with startling clarity. It's one of the best places in Qinghai for astrophotography.

Practical Information for Your Visit

Plan your journey to this magnificent reservoir with these essential details:

Location: Longyangxia Town, Gonghe County, Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province. The site is approximately 140 kilometers from Xining and 80 kilometers from the southern shore of Qinghai Lake.

Best Time to Visit: May through October. The weather is most pleasant during these months. July and August are warm, while September and October offer crisp air and brilliant autumn colors on the surrounding hills.

Getting There:

From Xining: The drive takes about 2.5–3 hours via the Gonghe Expressway (G6), exiting towards Longyangxia. The road is excellent, winding through dramatic mountain passes before descending to the lake.

From Qinghai Lake: If you are doing the Qinghai Lake circuit, Longyang Lake is an easy detour. From Heimahe or the southern shore, it is about a 1.5hour drive southeast.

Public Transportation: Buses run from Xining to Longyangxia Town. From the town, it's a short taxi ride to the dam and lake.

Admission and Activities:

Longyangxia Dam/Lake Access: There is usually a small fee for the dam scenic area and parking.

Boat Tours: Prices vary depending on the duration and route (typically 50–120 RMB per person).

Earth Forest: A separate, modest entrance fee is charged (approx. 30–40 RMB).

Where to Stay:

Longyangxia Town: The closest option, with several simple, clean hotels catering to tourists and workers from the dam. The Longyang Hotel is a reliable choice.

Lakeside Guesthouses: A few basic guesthouses and fish restaurants are located right on the water, offering stunning views.

Return to Qinghai Lake: Many visitors choose to visit Longyang Lake as a day trip from their accommodation on the southern shore of Qinghai Lake.

Essential Packing List:

Sunglasses and Sunscreen: The glare off the water is intense.

Windproof Jacket: The lake and dam create their own weather, and it can be very windy.

Camera: Essential for the epic landscapes.

Binoculars: Great for spotting birds and scanning the cliffs.

Snacks and Water: Facilities are limited, especially near the earth forest.

Altitude Awareness: The lake sits at approximately 2,600 meters. While lower than Qinghai Lake or the Qilian Mountains, it's still high enough to be felt. Stay hydrated and avoid overexertion on your first day.

Summary: Longyang Lake is a destination of dramatic contrasts. It is a place where a colossal feat of modern engineering coexists with landscapes that feel prehistoric. Where the Yellow River, the cradle of Chinese civilization, runs a deep and pristine blue. And where you can cruise on a placid inland sea in the morning and hike through an alien "earth forest" in the afternoon. For travelers seeking to go beyond Qinghai's famous salt lakes and monasteries, Longyang Lake offers a raw, majestic, and deeply rewarding experience. It is a testament to nature's power and humanity's ambition, all set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Tibetan Plateau. Come for the views, stay for the peace, and leave with a new appreciation for the many faces of the Yellow River.